Jump to content
SAU Community

Os Giken Triple Plate Clutch

GOT GAME
 Share

Recommended Posts

GOT GAME Enthusiast

GOT GAME

Posted
Posted

hey guys i got a os giken triple plate clutch in my gtr and i have found it way 2 hard to drive, what i wanna know is what are they worth to sell 2nd hand? and does anybody know anyone who is chasing one? as i would rather sell it and downgrade to a button cushion clutch which is alot easier 2 drive.

cheers

andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264301-os-giken-triple-plate-clutch/
Share on other sites
DCIEVE Mentor

DCIEVE

Posted
Posted

The solid centre os gikens are a prick to drive, I went from a sprung twin to a solid quad - combine that with a 2way diff and its a pig at low speed.

The sprung os twin's are like a std clutch to drive and great in a daily, I'd recommend going that way if your making <450-500rwhp.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Interested how you'd go about modifying this?

R3A.jpg

That design is always going to be tough to drive, dont see what having two three or four plates has to do with it.

30% more surface area on the friction material is always going to make it more harsh to drive. Sprung or unsprung plays a part also but if you want to make an OS triple into a very nicely driveable twin, then you take it to NPC.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
NPC clutches are the regular plate style last I saw... didnt know they could also modify the style pictured above.

Yes, they can modify them but the catch is that a triple can only be rebuilt as a twin. The plates are thicker so he can only fit 2 plates in where OS fit 3.

The twins can still be rebuilt as twins.

I have had a few triples done in the past. They drive so nicely afterwards

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
Posted

ive driven it and its very hard 2 drive, well take off anyway, once ur rolling its fine. down shifting is a bit bitey though. i dont think he knows wot type it is dcieve as he bought it from a guy who said thats what clutch was put in it.

R33_NICK Community Regular

R33_NICK

Posted
Posted

heel and toe on downshifts: helps stopping compression lock when your releasing the clutch quickly. my mates R34s got a Tripple plate clutch as well and damn its difficult when your stuck in traffic but i love it :thumbsup: especially once you get it going and shifting.

what about a Nismo slave cylinder upgrade? apparently i heard that this will make the car easier to drive when you have a multi-plate clutch??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • defari
      What Music Are You Listening To?

      By defari · Posted

    • defari
      What Music Are You Listening To?

      By defari · Posted

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyZDvZmvhik
    • GTSBoy
      Car Rotisserie

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You'd be better off digging a pit and standing under it to shoot it.
    • MBS206
      Troubleshooting - motor wont turn over

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The easiest way would to be ignore the oscilloscope, grab a multimeter, and make sure all the main connections are right. An oscilloscope will give 99.9% of even technicians so much grief, as they have no idea what things should even look like on an oscilloscope. Which is also even more likely for someone who's first ever major work on a car is this If the battery volts are dropping down so low, the LDV will reboot the ECU, when it does so, it will drop out the start circuit. If this is occuring, the battery voltage should also come back up. Give it a few tests, even simple ones like when you're attempting to crank it, measure voltage from the engine block, to the negative terminal. You might find you've got really bad connections somewhere. My guess is the "new" motor has something like a shit starter motor, at which point, you can swap the starter motor from the old motor, to the new motor. Before I did any of the above though, I'd 100% confirm the battery in the vehicle. Most jumper packs are absolutely useless, especially if a battery has a bad cell for example. Also the new modern "jump packs" if you don't know what you're doing with them, you won't even get them into high current stage. So go back to basics, check the battery, especially with a known good one as a replacement test. Check ALL the wiring, this includes where they're bolted onto the battery, and bolted onto the starter motor. Check all the earth straps are on. Measure your resistances across your earth straps. A good check here is to measure voltage across the earth straps while you're trying to crank it. If you're seeing voltage, you've got high resistance joints! Oh, and once you've done the above, check the battery over again.
    • MBS206
      Car Rotisserie

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For most rotisseries, as Duncan has mentioned, you really don't want a full car on it, you want a stripped shell. And imagine how many more weeks THAT is going to add to working on the car...
×
×
  • Create New...