Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All, just seeking a quick bit of advice...

Bought an ADM S14 S2 a few years back with the intention of building it up as a club car. Since then i have only done basic mods and haven't been to nearly enough events. Anyway, as I loose interest in modifying the car further, mainly due to the costs involved (remembering im not a mechanic doing all the work myself, NOR DO I CLAIM TO BE). I have hatched a plan on how to cut my losses and thought i'd see what you guys think.

Previously i thought id be able to sell the car for at least $10K, but as its reached the 200,000km mark i can see that no one wants to touch it. So the s14's like mine seem to be going for around $7-8K. Anyway my point is that if you search carpoint.com for R33's you will notice that currently there are 774 cars for sale!! Clearly the R33's have been hit even harder in terms of dropping prices, and in relation to supply and demand, there are that many of them for sale you can pick your km's, mods, and colour as you please.

My point is, im not intersted in modifying my S14 further, and even though its not worth much anymore i could sell it and get into an R33 with low KMs and good basic mods for similar money. Even if i sold mine, saved 3-4 thousand and bought a good R33 for $10K I cant see how I'd go wrong. I just figure as mine has hit 200,000kms and i could start fresh with an R33 with 80,000kms and more mods on it, why wouldnt I? Im not an expert on the Specs of the R33 but i know im looking for a post 96' Series2.

I'd be aiming to do a few track days here and there (with a second set of rims and semi's) and the occasisional Deca day.

So what do you guys think, Is there any merit in my plan? And is there anything you think i should look out for when buying a 33? Obviously I'll get it all checked out before i buy it anyway. But also in terms of using a 33 as a club car, any advice? Ive got this same thread going on NissanSilvia.com but the majority of the feedback just mirrors the site name, if you know what i mean.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264362-sellign-s14-to-buy-r33/
Share on other sites

both cars are quite different to drive. you're obviously sick of your s14 and have your eyes already set on a 33. I think you've pretty much answered your own question. Mods will cost the same either way. your 80km skyline if you get a genuine one will be due for a 100k service just the same as your s14 hitting 200k's. there are alot of not so great liners floating around and general rule is you get what you pay for really and im not sure if you can get a decent 33 for 10k? then again i may be wrong.

hey mate, not sure if you can find a nice series 2 r33 for under 10k... but get the one you like the look of better... you can rebuild your S14 or get a R33 (Series1?) with mods, really depends on what you want, if u want a change etc...

Not too sure about S14, but the Skyline has been known to have better build quality than the Silvia platform - the engine / gearbox is pretty tough as far as i know

just as a added bonus, the RB doesn't sound like a fart can :(

Edited by shaun123

having owned an s14 i would definately keep that over an r33. much nicer car,

rebuild the motor or put s15 motor in (similar cost to a full build)

and u have a nice street car with low k's and heaps of power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’re all still going on about track cars, he has said multiple times doesn’t intend to take it to the track,  just stick to what was said at the beginning and do the pump and ecu, it’ll get you enough for 230kw at the wheels and has enough poke to be fun for what you want it for 
    • All of that is absolutely true. At any time in the history of these turbos the lottery has always been that it could die at stock boost treated exactly as the factory intended, or it could die when pushed to 10, or 12, or 14, or 16 psi, after a short time, or a longer time, or it could last seemingly forever. You have the combination of all the possible statistical (probably) normal distributions of manufacturing tolerances and quality outcomes, on top of the statistical distributions of failure modes (which might be normal, but are probably biased, like Poisson distributions). You get the lucky turbo and you can beat on it for years. You get the really unlucky turbo and it will crap itself as it rolls out of the factory gate. And every possibility in between. But you can definitely still kill the lucky turbo. It's just that most people didn't try, once they knew they really shouldn't try.
    • Maybe I have Stockholm syndrome but working on an M2 isn't that hard. Getting parts cheaply and quickly is hard, but getting parts same day isn't necessarily hard if you're willing to pay way too much for it at local dealers. There's a lot going on, you need to have a build of ISTA on a laptop and the right cable, if you don't have the mindset of "do it exactly right or not at all" you will probably start seeing cascading failures. Skylines are a little more tolerant in that regard. The car doesn't potentially trash itself if you bought the wrong oil filter like a BMW would. Or trash the entire cylinder head and potentially spin a bearing because someone took the anti-drainback valve out of the plastic oil filter cap. An M2 will also do just fine on track, zero oil starvation concerns, factory brakes are great if you change the pads for a high temp compound + flush with track-ready fluid.
    • The "ideal/formula" that used to be touted was death of the turbo is going to be caused by a combination of 3 things. Heat Speed of turbo (boost level you're pushing) Time   Basically, you can get away with high heat and high boost for short periods. But start doing long hard pulls, or circuit driving etc, and now you've increased time as well which will shred things. From memory when Adrian was drag racing he was running 17psi, on a stock turbo, and running insane speeds. But he also had other additives helping in the setup too. Some people have success at 14psi for a while, while others due to pushing the cars hard for long periods opt down to lower temps. But also, generate a lot of heat (let's say bad tune), for a long time, and you'll be okay, until you try to spin that little guy up slightly. It's the one advantage of dumping a lot of fuel in, you'll be reducing EGT a bit and helping with the heat portion of the above 3 areas.   And these days, stock turbos are that old that there's the possibility of just outright failures due to material age. I'm not shocked that even when used in factory spec that a stock turbo fails when 30 years old. It's a worn out "precision" "balanced" performance item, that's likely no longer precise, or well balanced
    • this... hence I said what I said previously, SMSP nights you see mainly Hondas, Evos, A90s, F80x and the odd VW. The 5 or 6 times I went, I only saw 1x R32 GT-R, and other than that I was the only one in a shit box Skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...