Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, as title says

i recently purchased a HKS 2530 turbo and it has slight shaft play. around 1-2mm (possibly???)

I'm looking to take the turbo into a specialist e.g. ATS

What should i be looking to ask for? i don't know how bad the shaft play is

and i don't know what the cost for a replacement compressor is or balancing costs etc.

someone please help...

New as in new to you or new as in new out of the box?

BB turbos will always have some play, once they have some oil in them theyll be fine.

If when you push the wheel to one side, it contacts the housing and cannot spin then the turbo is pretty farked.

The turbo is second hand, new to me. it's done approx 5,000kms

the compressor/wheel can still spin when pushed to one side, although it rubs ever so slightly on the compressor cover, just want to be cautious

lots of money going into this build.

more help is muchly appreciated

cheers guys

if you're spending lots of money on the build then the last place you want to be stingy on is the turbo especially when its the one part that could cause some catastrophic damage to your motor if it fails.

send it in for a service and the turbo mechanic will be able to tell whats wrong with it anyway. when i dropped my sliding performance turbo in for servicing they told me straight away that it looked like it had 50,000-80,000km of wear (while having done only 2,000km on the car). they know their shit.

if you're spending lots of money on the build then the last place you want to be stingy on is the turbo especially when its the one part that could cause some catastrophic damage to your motor if it fails.

send it in for a service and the turbo mechanic will be able to tell whats wrong with it anyway. when i dropped my sliding performance turbo in for servicing they told me straight away that it looked like it had 50,000-80,000km of wear (while having done only 2,000km on the car). they know their shit.

lol i remember that one......... :D

+1 on getting it checked out if it can hit the comp cover...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...