Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

im looking at purchasing cams from http://www.camtechcams.com.au/ & valve springs from http://www.performancesprings.com.au/.

pricing has attracted me & i've heard some good things about both products to date, im also aware that some engine builders use these brands.

how do they rate in terms of quality & performance versus the likes say jun, hks, tomei?

regards

marko

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264697-aust-made-cams-valve-springs/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Marko you need to put "ill keep racing but" in the approprate spot in the quote in your sig.

haha - thats true paul, that should be added on the end of jims quote...

Get your $900 and buy Australian made, good on ya!

i wonder if they stamp the cams with the green & gold "STRAAAALIAN MAAADE" sticker lol

Haven't delt with camtech but I have been running performance valve springs for about 10-15 years in a variety of v8's including full on drag engines spinning to 11000 rpm, have not had an issue with any of their products they are top shelf,I would recommend their product to anyone!

i spoke to the camtech rep today as they now offer 270, 278 and 280 duration @ 10.8mm lift

with the 11.5mm lift i was told that more work is required to the head and that the factory buckets can become unstable

what would be the better option for increased performance?

marko, better off not to go too big on camshafts if you are running -10's, otherwise you will make it abit of a lag monster... keep them suttle and not 2 big, look at the group a aussie gtr's, they had medium sized cams and produced 600+ brake with a rev limit of 7000rpm. the porting is the most important in making power...

by the way, your setup will piss in 400rwkw.... u stress 2 much

i know dennis - im hopeless when it comes to making decisions!

i understand your point BUT remember that im doing an rb26/30 which means i can afford to go a bit bigger with cams...i was thinking the 270degree @ 10.8mm lift would be ideal?

what cams u running in your built rb26?

dont forget my 26 was to be a drag engine, with 9200rpm limit... i had hks 272 with 10.2 lift... these cams would be well good to go to 9500rpm...

my 32 gtr has gibson group a cams, same as in the bathurst gtr's, i have -10 on that engine also, these cams will be a shitload better for drivability, thaink about it, if the bathurst gtr's used them they would have had one thing in mind, "torque" and still produced big numbers, and they were 26's not 30's, remember torque is what u want, if u focus on achiving this your car will be a animal....

from what ive found - these are the cam specs of the gibson m/s gtr:

Inlet 256 @ 9.5mm lift

Exhaust 278 @ 9.75 mm lift

for a 3ltr though, i'd need to go bigger 1 would think

a few tuners had recommended 270-272 with under 11mm lift, i'll probably stick to that unless i hear of better results from smaller cams, its hard to know...all trial & error if nobody else has tested bigger v's smaller cams

I'm running a pair of 264 [email protected] 9mm (110/115) cams at their std centrelines in the rb30det with a 9:1 static comp, ported/polished, deshrouded head.

Idles smooth and can tell its got a slight cam but doesn't lope as such. Just a deep smooth throb.

The top end has that typical cam sound due to the increased ramp rates.

Economy is great (attributed to a slightly better tune) and picked up ~30rwkw on the same boost.

No noticeable seat of the pants low end loss (dyno shows real slight loss under ~2000) but once over it starts making more power everywhere.

For the RB30DET RB25 head I'd personally convert to solid and run 10.5mm lift cams otherwise you have to try and screw too much boost in to it to make decent power (350-400rwkw+) on pump fuel. Pump fuel really doesn't like lots and lots of boost. :D

Edited by TheRogue

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...