Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently purchased a R33 GTST and am really enjoying driving it around. However, I'm hearing what sounds like bearing noises in my right front wheel. It seems to lesson when i turn right, and only starts after i've been going at a certain speed or after i've turned. RAC pointed out that the wheel was making this sound when they inspected it, the shop i bought it from said they lubricated the bearings and it should be right.

I'm not too savvy when it comes to car mechanics, but since buying this car I'm hoping to learn more. I've been reading the forums and looking at some of the DIY posts. I'm going to blurt out my story in point form and hope that I can get some useful feedback.

- I wanted to get it serviced somewhere they know what they are doing

- I have a warranty where I can only take my car to specific garages

- Took it to Xspeed to ask about their prices and servicing

- Guy came out to have a look at my engine and pointed out a few things

- Mentioned that the noise i'm hearing might be bearings or could be drive shaft

- Told me my engine was missing some "plugs" ..which i will expand on in case someone can help me.

- Called the garage my warranty covers and asked them if they have experience with imported turbo skylines

- Dude said "nooo...take it to high perf shop"

- Warranty won't cover me there

- Called shop I bought car from about it they said, it's not that complicated a car. bring it back so we can see if there's something not there that should be there.

The "Plugs"

I've attached images 1, 2, 3 in a zooming arrangement to give you a detailed view without (hopefully) disorienting you.

All I can remember about what the guy at xspeed told me is that there should be plugs in these holes. There's two on each side of the engine. These plugs expand or something? And they stop something else from warping. After a while these plugs fall out and need replacing. But if they aren't replaced, more inner plugs fall out, thing warps more, and eventually something will break off into the turbo and kill it.

To fix it, what they need to do and flatten out wateva it is that warps and make sure it's nice and flush and then put some more of these 'plugs' in. He quoted around $1500 to have it fixed.

I'm sorry I can't remember what they were called and my description is pretty bad. But if you have any idea from my description and from my pictures, could you fill me in on what these things are called exactly and how concerned I should be about it.

post-61514-1239253635_thumb.jpg

post-61514-1239253648_thumb.jpg

post-61514-1239253663_thumb.jpg

You said that the bearings have been lubricated. Fair enough. Most bearing noises emit a droning noise rather than a clicking noise.

You also said that the noise at the front right wheel lessens when you turn right.

This is consistent with the fact that your right hand side drive shaft is on its way out - especially if the noise is more apparent when you turn left. Just try doing some left hand turns slowly & under load. Check if there is a clicking or clackety sound during the apex.

If it's this, new CVs don't tend to cost as much as they used to.

Dunno about the plugs. It's best to PM someone in your area with the same car, so that you can compare.

BTW welcome to SAU! :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’re all still going on about track cars, he has said multiple times doesn’t intend to take it to the track,  just stick to what was said at the beginning and do the pump and ecu, it’ll get you enough for 230kw at the wheels and has enough poke to be fun for what you want it for 
    • All of that is absolutely true. At any time in the history of these turbos the lottery has always been that it could die at stock boost treated exactly as the factory intended, or it could die when pushed to 10, or 12, or 14, or 16 psi, after a short time, or a longer time, or it could last seemingly forever. You have the combination of all the possible statistical (probably) normal distributions of manufacturing tolerances and quality outcomes, on top of the statistical distributions of failure modes (which might be normal, but are probably biased, like Poisson distributions). You get the lucky turbo and you can beat on it for years. You get the really unlucky turbo and it will crap itself as it rolls out of the factory gate. And every possibility in between. But you can definitely still kill the lucky turbo. It's just that most people didn't try, once they knew they really shouldn't try.
    • Maybe I have Stockholm syndrome but working on an M2 isn't that hard. Getting parts cheaply and quickly is hard, but getting parts same day isn't necessarily hard if you're willing to pay way too much for it at local dealers. There's a lot going on, you need to have a build of ISTA on a laptop and the right cable, if you don't have the mindset of "do it exactly right or not at all" you will probably start seeing cascading failures. Skylines are a little more tolerant in that regard. The car doesn't potentially trash itself if you bought the wrong oil filter like a BMW would. Or trash the entire cylinder head and potentially spin a bearing because someone took the anti-drainback valve out of the plastic oil filter cap. An M2 will also do just fine on track, zero oil starvation concerns, factory brakes are great if you change the pads for a high temp compound + flush with track-ready fluid.
    • The "ideal/formula" that used to be touted was death of the turbo is going to be caused by a combination of 3 things. Heat Speed of turbo (boost level you're pushing) Time   Basically, you can get away with high heat and high boost for short periods. But start doing long hard pulls, or circuit driving etc, and now you've increased time as well which will shred things. From memory when Adrian was drag racing he was running 17psi, on a stock turbo, and running insane speeds. But he also had other additives helping in the setup too. Some people have success at 14psi for a while, while others due to pushing the cars hard for long periods opt down to lower temps. But also, generate a lot of heat (let's say bad tune), for a long time, and you'll be okay, until you try to spin that little guy up slightly. It's the one advantage of dumping a lot of fuel in, you'll be reducing EGT a bit and helping with the heat portion of the above 3 areas.   And these days, stock turbos are that old that there's the possibility of just outright failures due to material age. I'm not shocked that even when used in factory spec that a stock turbo fails when 30 years old. It's a worn out "precision" "balanced" performance item, that's likely no longer precise, or well balanced
    • this... hence I said what I said previously, SMSP nights you see mainly Hondas, Evos, A90s, F80x and the odd VW. The 5 or 6 times I went, I only saw 1x R32 GT-R, and other than that I was the only one in a shit box Skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...