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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
No exactly what the question is...

Doing a burnout? - Drive around the water, backup onto the pad and apply noise.

Isolating the front wheels? - How about one of the Dirtmans 2wd/4wd switch and harnesses...

The 33GTR attessa system if different and you can't just switch from 4wd to 2wd with a switch. You can use a torque split controller but this doesn't fully isolate the rear wheels and isn't good for the transfer case. The proper way to do it is to remove any pressure from the attessa system so that there is no transfer to the front wheels. examples of cars that do this is the heat treatments GTR and Godzilla Motorsports GTR that have a manual pump system to pressurize the transfer case.

There is some combo that you are meant to be able to do, to de-pressurise the transfer case for towing (can't remember it off the top of my head) but it would be a pain in the ass to do on the drag strip.

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For an R33/R34 why don't you put in a 3 position solenoid valve in the pressure line that goes to the transfer case and flick a switch to divert all the oil back to the reservior... hence no pre-load? Or is it a mechanical pre-load some how?

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To put the GTR into rear wheel drive is simple.

My R33 Service Manual states:-

There are 2 Methods to change the drive mode to 2WD setting.

1. Remove air evacuation connector, and depress the brake pedal 5 times within 10 seconds after placingthe ignition switch to ON posititon. At the same time the 4WD warning lamp will flash in the meter panel (twice in a second) to indicate it's in 2WD mode. To return the the vehicle drive mode to 4WD mode, place the ignition switch to OFF position and connect air evacuation connector.

2. Remove front propeller shaft.

Can anybody confirm this works??

post-47546-1243496825_thumb.jpg

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shit seems like its all to complicated, was hoping for a quick fix way.

ill be doing heaps of passes on the day so hopefully they will warm up due to the mount of use they are getting but i know they wont be perfect.

and yes i do have a torque splitter and already new that the 2wd/4wd switch doesnt work for r33's

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For an R33/R34 why don't you put in a 3 position solenoid valve in the pressure line that goes to the transfer case and flick a switch to divert all the oil back to the reservior... hence no pre-load? Or is it a mechanical pre-load some how?

I haven't really looked into it, but something like that could work using a solenoid as I think it pressurizes it when you turn the ignition to acc. Maybe a switch could be rigged up to activate a solenoid to block the line to the transfer case before the car is turned on?

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I haven't really looked into it, but something like that could work using a solenoid as I think it pressurizes it when you turn the ignition to acc. Maybe a switch could be rigged up to activate a solenoid to block the line to the transfer case before the car is turned on?

Yeah I would not block it just return it to the reservior, so the ATESSA ecu can do what ever it wants however the transfer case sees no oil hence does not engage 4WD. Not sure if it is that simple.

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  • 2 months later...
To put the GTR into rear wheel drive is simple.

My R33 Service Manual states:-

There are 2 Methods to change the drive mode to 2WD setting.

1. Remove air evacuation connector, and depress the brake pedal 5 times within 10 seconds after placingthe ignition switch to ON posititon. At the same time the 4WD warning lamp will flash in the meter panel (twice in a second) to indicate it's in 2WD mode. To return the the vehicle drive mode to 4WD mode, place the ignition switch to OFF position and connect air evacuation connector.

2. Remove front propeller shaft.

Can anybody confirm this works??

post-47546-1243496825_thumb.jpg

i can confirm that it works a treat used it on a dyno and for skids many times

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