Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, im currently making 299rwkw-402rwhp on an rb20 now i am using ngk r567a-8 non protruded plug i just checked my plugs an they were fouled up but i had a boost leak hense maybe why the plugs are now fouled up.What would anyone recommend 7 or 8 heatrange running 1.5bar. Have all supporting mods etc.I have searched but got no concrete results an most seem to be using BKR7ES.

Thanks for any imput.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265192-sparkplug-heatrange/
Share on other sites

Give the 7's or 8's a hard run on the dyno then pull them out to see if they are too hot or too cool.

I've in my motor copper 6's are good up until around 250rwkw then up to 300rwkw 7's past that 8's.

Leaning out the cold start enrichment (of which u can do a fair bit from default pfc values) also helps prevent the plugs fouling on short trips. Tweaking cold start enrichment etc is the difference between leaving the car with a tuner for 3days with a $600 tune vs a quick tune for $300-$400. Or fiddling yourself leaning it out every cold start until you experience driveability issues.

380rwhp I'd run 7's. BCPR7ES @ 0.8mm

I've also ran resisted and non-resisted at around 400rwhp - no difference that the dyno or I could notice. Both plugs required a gap of 0.8mm with std nissan coils.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, you want the IACV to be running at around 30 "units", variously called "steps" or "duty cycle" depending on the person. That gives it room to go lower if need be and higher ditto.
    • Ah right that makes sense.
    • The RPM is just a target, the ECU will adjust things to try and hit that target but it's by no means guaranteed. If the IACV duty cycle is 0 or something like that and it's actually closing up fully then the idle is as low as it can physically go without reducing ignition timing. The problem can be something like the cold start valve in the IACV not closing fully, worn throttle shaft seals, torn rubber diaphragm in the brake booster allowing unmetered air, etc. 
    • Apexi, though I'm not comfortable with setting the idle, knowing me I'll f**k it up lol.
    • What ECU is on your car @silviaz? You can just change the idle target table yourself and the IACV duty cycle. Noting that if you play around with the screw you'll also need to revisit the idle base duty table as you will end up offsetting the lot. Another reason why DBW is superior, there's less mucking about.
×
×
  • Create New...