Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, im currently making 299rwkw-402rwhp on an rb20 now i am using ngk r567a-8 non protruded plug i just checked my plugs an they were fouled up but i had a boost leak hense maybe why the plugs are now fouled up.What would anyone recommend 7 or 8 heatrange running 1.5bar. Have all supporting mods etc.I have searched but got no concrete results an most seem to be using BKR7ES.

Thanks for any imput.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265192-sparkplug-heatrange/
Share on other sites

Give the 7's or 8's a hard run on the dyno then pull them out to see if they are too hot or too cool.

I've in my motor copper 6's are good up until around 250rwkw then up to 300rwkw 7's past that 8's.

Leaning out the cold start enrichment (of which u can do a fair bit from default pfc values) also helps prevent the plugs fouling on short trips. Tweaking cold start enrichment etc is the difference between leaving the car with a tuner for 3days with a $600 tune vs a quick tune for $300-$400. Or fiddling yourself leaning it out every cold start until you experience driveability issues.

380rwhp I'd run 7's. BCPR7ES @ 0.8mm

I've also ran resisted and non-resisted at around 400rwhp - no difference that the dyno or I could notice. Both plugs required a gap of 0.8mm with std nissan coils.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
    • And now the bloody flapper is jammed slightly open. Lazy as all f**k in 3rd-5th (very hard to convince it to make much boost before you run out of revs), but will make 12 psi in 1st, which shouldb't be possible with a 5 psi spring and controller set to <10 psi. Methinks I'm lucky it jammed where it did, rather than fully closed. It's actually a well weird situation. Careful examination of what's happening in the back of that housing when the gearbox comes out and all the other stuff (injectors, AFM retune) is supposed to be done, next week.
    • The powder coating came in at $250 EACH. The TRX rims got a coat of clearcoat on the outside only.    
×
×
  • Create New...