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My partner and i have decided that within the next 12 months we're leaving Australia and returning home so i want to sell this stuff off now so im not tempted to spend any money on it.

thanks to telstra i have almost no internet access so if your seriuos about any of these parts call me.

0450472446

1990 Cefiro shell, is complied and has been prevously registered in queensland.

Good stuff:

Rear quarter has been replaced but looks like its been done well

Chassis is straight

No rust

180sx non-hicas rack with brand new JJR tierod ends

Clean fuel tank with GTR pump (prvious tank when i got the shell was junk)

Trust rear shocks and springs (not coilovers, however they are damper adjustable)

Pedders comfort shocks on the front with standard springs.

The not so good:

Was previously hicas and still has the hicas cradle and lines in it. all you need is a lock bar and the rack is already nonhicas.

The car came with a steering column that had the ignition barrel missing (previous owner has turning it into a track car)

i swapped it with another non-hicas column, so the key does not fit the door locks, however i have both front door locks that do work with the key and you only need to swap them over (very easy job)

Car was previosly auto, but comes with pedals, clutch master cylinder, handbrake etc etc.

i paid $2500 for it and have replaced little bits and pieces such as an R33 castor rod and brace was for some reason fitted (and no they dont fit in A31's) i swapped that out for the correct A31.

plus the trust shocks, tierod ends

so im after $2500

rear pedders shocks are also included as is a bunch of trim pieces, however there is no rear seats.

RB20 Motor

this motor has never caused me any trouble, the car had done approx 60,000kms according to the dash.

it was auto for most of its life and never saw more than 14psi.

it comes with standard turbo that has quiter abit of shaft play, standard manifold, custom top half plenum welded to the standard runners. comes with injector and coilpack loom, injectors, coilpacks.

comes with all oil and water fittings but the water line that runs around the back of the head has been cut for a previous setup, nothing major you just need a custom line to suit your setup.

never leaked any oil or water and always went great.

Plenum $350 with no fittings

Motor $550 with no plenum

$900 complete.

RB20 5 speed gearbox

comes with shifter, white nismo gearknob.

i only did a few hundred km's but it went great

$300

RB20 standard clutch and freshly machined flywheel, these have done approx 150km's since being fitted. the clutch was brand new,

$220 these must be sold together!!!!

a31 crossmember

$120

Uras style front bar to suit A31 has a large crack at the bottom that has been zip tied together $80

Uras style skirts to suit A31, a bit rough but still useable $40

Cefiro Boot perfect condition $50

Cefiro cat back exhaust (does not have any cannon, you must get your own fitted or it wont reach the end of the car) $80

Bride lowmax with rails to suit A31, R32, R33. sticting has come part in a small area at the top of the seat otherwise is in great condition. i paid $860 sell for $600.

Cefiro doors:

Fronts minus locks $40 each

Rears one has a broken regualtor ($180 from nissan) $40 for good one with almiost rear reg, $20 for broken one.

Very rough cefiro front guards, suitable for a track only car, still bolt up fine just very rough $20 each

Standard 4 Stud cefiro cradlewith stock diff. was non-hicas but bolts for the shocks have been cut off. $220

Please no time wasters, either you have the money and want to buy or you dont.

REMEMBER I DONT HAVE INTERNET ACCESS SO CAL ME, I DONT HAVE AN ANSWERING MESSAGE SO IF I DONT ANSWER SEND ME AN SMS.

no parts at this stage will be getting sent out of sydney pickup only.

ive got a few other cefiro parts such as stock bars, rear reo etc.

  • 2 weeks later...

i now have internet access.

the box, uras front bar, skirts and rear bar plus boot have been sold.

if the motor or shell dont sell soonish i might start putting the car together so if you have any interest show it now.

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  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. 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Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
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