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Price For A New V35 Alternator?

Easy Tiger
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Easy Tiger Enthusiast

Easy Tiger

Posted
Posted

I have been doing some research and am thinking it is possible the alternator bearings have had it in my V35. That being the case, from what I understand you have to replace the whole alternator as you can't just replace the bearings.

Does anyone know what a new alternator costs for one of these cars? Mine is a 250GT sedan if that makes a difference.

Thanks

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V35_Paul Veteran

V35_Paul

Posted
Posted
I have been doing some research and am thinking it is possible the alternator bearings have had it in my V35. That being the case, from what I understand you have to replace the whole alternator as you can't just replace the bearings.

Does anyone know what a new alternator costs for one of these cars? Mine is a 250GT sedan if that makes a difference.

Thanks

Just a guess but maybe you should look at the 350z alternator. Just guessing

Easy Tiger Enthusiast

Easy Tiger

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  • Author
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I've been trying to track down the exact location of the noise and from looking at engine schematics, I've narrowed it down to that area (at least I think, I'm no car mechanic :P ). It doesn't sound like just a belt type noise to me, it sounds like a shot bearing, it's a similar noise to what I used to encounter when working as a technician on tenpin bowling pinsetting machines and 9/10 times the bearing/bushing was shot. The drive belts went on my Fiance's car a little while ago and it was a very different sound to what mine is making.

The battery is holding charge fine, so I think the alternator is still working, but I think the bearing is on the way out.

Of course I could be totally wrong too.

Stephen Thorpe Proficient

Stephen Thorpe

Posted
Posted
I've been trying to track down the exact location of the noise and from looking at engine schematics, I've narrowed it down to that area (at least I think, I'm no car mechanic :) ). It doesn't sound like just a belt type noise to me, it sounds like a shot bearing, it's a similar noise to what I used to encounter when working as a technician on tenpin bowling pinsetting machines and 9/10 times the bearing/bushing was shot. The drive belts went on my Fiance's car a little while ago and it was a very different sound to what mine is making.

The battery is holding charge fine, so I think the alternator is still working, but I think the bearing is on the way out.

Of course I could be totally wrong too.

Whilst engine is running, use a plastic handled screwdriver on the bit you think is noisy, put ear to handle and listen... do not put head, hands or screwdriver in spinning engine bits!!

Stop engine, disconnect belt and spin alternator by hand, does it feel right? Is there any play in the bearing or end float in the shaft, is there any tight spots, does it make noise and does it feel smooth.

Then check that belt has no cracks in it, bend it backwards and look for shiny spots too...

Re-install belt and tension correctly, if a belt is not tensioned correctly bearing type noises can occur.

Start car and spray belt with a spray that is designed for reducing noise in v or spline belts. Available in all Auto shops and isn't expensive and last for ages, do not use much.

If the noise is still there and whilst the car is running, use a multimeter to make sure the voltage is correct at the battery terminals (13+ volts - 13.8-14.4v is best). Sometimes a bush inside alternator will make noise and this sometimes effects charging. Doubtful though.

As for cost, Nissan wanted $1400 for an Alternator and $300 for the regulator at Trade prices for my R33 GTS-T.

Easy Tiger Enthusiast

Easy Tiger

Posted
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Posted

Thanks Stephen. Don't know if I am game to pull that much apart, don't know enough about the engine set up to be honest and would hate to break something. I'm putting it in to the garage tomorrow to get checked over, so hopefully they will be able to come up with the solution. Thanks for your detailed help though, really appreciated :)

Nissan sure know how to charge for parts.. well I am hoping it is not the alternator!

superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
Posted

Hi people....while we're on alt's, may I ask the following....

Has anyone had issue (V35) with back-leak of voltage with their alt?

I've gone through 2 batteries now, and the car won't hold a charge for more than 2 days...old Batt wouldn't come back to life, my new one is dying every other day.

I placed a multi-meter in series (current test mode) to the battery, and found it was drawing well over 300mA, with everything off, (including the boot light..lol!).

I know my on board GPS draws a little current, but very little, as I tested it.

I've had this issue since I've been off work (hospital, and resting up, hence little driving), and since I had my alarm/immob installed...it could well be that!....but until I go back to the installer I'll just be looking for your thoughts on V35 alt reliability or any issues you may have heard with busted diodes in the alt rectifier pack, with this model specifically?

Charge is good, with over 14V being supplied to the batt on idle.....batt recharges very well and very quickly.....after I jump start her!..LOL!

I thankyou for any thoughts you may have.

Stephen Thorpe Proficient

Stephen Thorpe

Posted
Posted

Must have a draw somewhere... broken relay?

If you have 14v when car is running then all should be good.

Do you ever see the battery light on the dash?

Just make sure that it doesn't drop every so often... mine when down to 1 volt for a second or so, then it did it for longer and longer over a few months.

Had to change Regulator/Rectifer.

So you leave GPS on?

superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
Posted
Must have a draw somewhere... broken relay?

If you have 14v when car is running then all should be good.

Do you ever see the battery light on the dash?

Just make sure that it doesn't drop every so often... mine when down to 1 volt for a second or so, then it did it for longer and longer over a few months.

Had to change Regulator/Rectifer.

So you leave GPS on?

hey. thanx 4 the response.

No batt light on dash, ever.

I running one of those finnicky Calcium Plate Batts at the moment....I'm pulling it out and putting the old style back int there, today.

But that won't solve the current leak issue.....so...I'll be disconnecting the batt when the car is not in use, until I get back to Tower Audio, and see what they have to say.

I really hope it's not the Rec/Diode pack...it's under warranty, but the hassle is a hassle!

Do you / anyone here know the approx C draw on a dodgey alt pack..just ball park....would it be around 300mA, or a lot less/more?

Yes, my GPS is part of the entertainment system, hardwired into the car's elec's like any other radio.....but it only consumes enough power to keep the 'tracking' data/ sat-signal lock refreshed....ummm....apparently.

Cheers people and to you ST.

Stephen Thorpe Proficient

Stephen Thorpe

Posted
Posted

300ma doesn't sound a lot, but if that is what you measured it surely wouldn't flatten a battery in 2 days... must be something else you are missing.

300ma vs 450CCA battery (approx) take a while to kill the starting function I would have thought.

Would have thought that any Auto Electrician could find the current draw somewhere.

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