Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Adam, I have the same turbos as you all be it not on a built engine like yours :ninja: ; both combos are tuned by Ant.

If your chasing 450whp just go a little more boost, mine makes 430rwhp all day no probs...yet lol. As for the response; I would go for some smaller cams. Ultimately Johns' step 1 HKS kit looks the way to go...again tuned by the same guy on the same dyno. John is making 100whp more than mine at the same speed with essentially the same turbos, 2530/2860-5.

In the end there is always a trade off between response and power...unless you have one of those freaky bespoke Racepace strokers...2.95 combos SR rods on a custom billet crank...

ooops edit the capacity of the Racepace. Cheers Steve

If im reading that chart correctly HKS 2510's will do around 440hp atw??

I have them on my gtr but havnt driven it yet due to some problems. What what i have heard there response is amazing while still making good power

  NickR33 said:
damn you Slide :P

how would these compare to the T517z 8cms?

Purely a theoretical question because I'm not planning on changing turbos... anytime soon :thumbsup:

back on topic, I would listen to what Ash said about cams... your cams would be setup for making peak power well over 6000rpm... they have massive overlap

We have only ever had the 10cm's and they achieve 350awkw at around 18 pound without head work.

They hit that boost pressure at roughly 4400rpm

With a 2.8LTR Tomei kit we have achieved 400awkw at 1.6 Bar

Boost at 4000 with poncams.

Its a good kit.

I have 8cms and they make 360rwkw at 20psi... hits 20 by about 4000rpm... would be nice to have another 100kw at the same rpm lol... it has Procams in it so it has a very strong top end but it could do with a change to smaller cams but I'm going to leave it as is for a while and see how it goes

Does anyone know the actual valve timing numbers for these "272" cams ?

I was just looking at Tighe rally Subaru cam specs recently and they were ~ 270 degrees , I think the valve timing numbers were about 25-65 67 23 . This gives an overlap of 48 degrees and not surprisingly the engines run like chaff cutters .

I wouldn't expect an RB26 with numbers like these to pull hard in the lower mid range no matter what turbos it had .

To make torque you have to have sufficient cylinder pressure in the relevant engine rev range and if you use longer duration cams with lots of overlap the trapping efficiency of the valves/cylinders is nowhere until the mass of the gasses carries them in the right directions .

I reckon use milder profile cams and see what happens with the turbos you have .

BTW -9's are the GTSS's not -7's .

Turbo wise if you wanted to build bitzers from Garrett cartridges the one I'd look at is the one from the SR20 spec "GTSS" GT2860R . These have the NS111 turbine found in GT2860RS's/GT2530's etc but the compressor wheel is the 60.1mm 60T . They are intended to be a mild bolt on for an SR20 but with GTR style housings they would be just a little tamer than a 2860RS or 2530 .

Three things pull the bottom end up with GTR spec GTss's/-9's compared to 2530's .

Firstly their turbines are 10 bladed 62 trim where the better NS111 ones are 9 bladed 76 trim .

Secondly their compressor wheels are 59.7mm 56 trim where the 2530's are 60.1mm 63 trim .

Thirdly the compressor housings are T3 dimensionally where 2530s are supposed to be T04B .

A .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...