Rb26 To 2.8

[im late]

Hey All,

I am now thicking of rebuilding my 2.6 to a 2.8.

My current specs are in the thread below:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...up-t265663.html

Can anyone out there with personal experience see that the upgrade will be a smooth one (i.e. I'll only need crank, piston and rods).

Correct me if I am wrong please.

[jonn]

No problems at all. Should perform well with the parts you have listed, especially with the -5's.

[MasterShake]

No problems at all. Should perform well with the parts you have listed, especially with the -5's.

Geez I need to do more reading. Thought the 26's were bored to 2.8.

All you'll need is pistons and rods?

[sneakey pete]

It is. I think he just defines ripping the engine out, stripping it, and boring it to 87mm as straight forward.

[Strik3r]

he is already running an 87mm bore. Just needs to change the stroke to 77.7mm by replacing the crank, rods and pistons. Will run fine, but prepare to fork out a fair bit of dosh - all the stroker kits are not cheap.

the only shopping part missing is an N1 block which isn't strictly necissary, but if your going to spend $8k or something on a stroker kit, an extra ~$3K on an N1 block is not unreasonable to do.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

I have not done it myself but here are some specs to give you an idea.

I think it's going to be a big job...

- http://www.nengun.com/hks/stroker-kit-niss...-28l-step-1-2-3

The HKS RB26DETT 2.8L kit is specially designed for Nissan's RB26DETT engine.

This kit provides improvements in torque during low to medium speed as required in street driving .

This kit also provides high horsepower output coupled with low frictional losses required for drag racing.

Extensive testing was performed in HKS.

HKS 2.8L Kit Step 1 Rated 441kW(600ps)

Compression ratio (Gasket Size)

* 8.70 (t=1.2mm)

* 8.4 (t=1.6mm)

* 8.1 (t=2.0mm)

Parts Included

- Forged piston kit

- Fully forged & balanced counter crankshaft.

-H cross section connecting rods.

* To cylinder block and baffle plate et cetera

Escaping processing becomes necessary.

HKS 2.8L Kit Step 2 Rated 588kW(800ps)

Compression ratio (Gasket Size)

* 8.70 (t=1.2mm)

* 8.4 (t=1.6mm)

* 8.1 (t=2.0mm)

- Forged piston kit (nickel plated & piston surface has a final molybdenum coating).

- Fully forged & balanced counter crankshaft.

-H cross section connecting rods.

* To cylinder block and baffle plate et cetera

Escaping processing becomes necessary.

HKS 2.8L Kit Step 3 Rated 882kW(1200ps)

Compression ratio (Gasket Size)

* 8.70 (t=1.2mm)

* 8.4 (t=1.6mm)

* 8.1 (t=2.0mm)

- Forged piston kit (nickel plated & piston surface has a final molybdenum coating).

- Fully forged & balanced counter crankshaft.

- H cross section connecting rods.

* To cylinder block and baffle plate et cetera

Escaping processing becomes necessary.

PISTONS

Piston material is specially forged to HKS specifications. This ensures high strength, durability, reliability, and produced to high dimensional accuracy. As a result, this forged piston enjoys tremendous weight savings, and a well balanced part.

The piston crown has a balanced & symetrical concave section design which ensures higher engine response. Any larger concave section will result in a drop in compression ratio, and will affect engine response.

To reduce abrasion resistance, and to improve performance, the top piston ring is titanium coated.

In order to acheive an overall low piston height, piston design with two thin piston oil rings is adopted by HKS. This ensures minimum friction, and a low tension type piston.

CONNECTION ROD

With the use of high pressure forging for the material, the part does not requires much secondary operations except for the mating bearing surfaces.

High tensile bolts are used to prevent cap opening during high inertial forces generated at high RPM loads.

CRANKSHAFT

The strength of the crankshaft is ensured when the metal fiber flow is not affected during the forging process.

It is a full counter form, balanced to high tolerances where smooth revolutions are ensured. This results in loads being evenly distributed onto the metal surface, and reduces frictional loads.

It is extremely light and strong compared to the factory item, and other aftermarket performance crankshaft available in the market

The rigidity of the pin side is improved with the addition of a rib to the connecting rod pin.

The crankshaft manufacturing process is completed with a special hardening process according to HKS specifications to ensure increased reliability at high RPM loads, and reduce fatigue.

[badgtr34]

frankly, if you are going to be stoking the motor, spending 3k on an N1 block in my opinion is not worth it since you are taking out a lot of meat out of the block due to the bigger internals. N1 blocks are perfect for motors built with larger pistons and thats about it. The whole point of going an N1 block is its strength, when you start boring it out your losing that strength and for 3k, thats a lot of money when your not getting its full moneys worth!

[Strik3r]

true, but when your boring out any block you need all the strength you can get. The improved water channels in the N1 block allow it to cope with the thinner walls better. You can bore N1 blocks out to 87.5 or 88 mm, whereas standard block can't go any further than 87.

[Strik3r]

in fact, if i remember correctly the tomei 2.8ltr stroker kit calls for an 87.5 mm bore which means you HAVE to have an N1 block to do it. Certainly all of the 3ltr strokers require an N1 block as they use 88mm bores.

edit: just checked and tomei provide options for 86.5, 87 and 87.5 mm bores.. presumable they modify the stroke to give the same displacement or just advertise it as an 2.8 ltr when it ranges from 2750cc - 2820cc depending on bore size.

[N1GTR]

Why not consider the RB30?

[badgtr34]

a lot more custom work involved in dropping it in a gtr chassis, especially if you want to keep the 4wd too i would imagine.. i have heard that its not as easy as one would think...

[N1GTR]

a lot more custom work involved in dropping it in a gtr chassis, especially if you want to keep the 4wd too i would imagine.. i have heard that its not as easy as one would think...

In Sydney, 3k covers motor out, rb30 motor in, all mounts fabbed up, fluids etc, ready to drive away. Compare that to the price for an RB26 out and an RB26 in

[badgtr34]

well rb26 out and in roughly would cost 1600 approx... plus, there are a lot of well built rb26's out there putting out a lot of power, just need the right set up/formula to put the right parts all together to make it good!

[N1GTR]

Agreed

[Black Widow]

easy

RB26 out

Z-Tune motor in

done

[GTRNUR]

Im working on an open deck engine project at the moment that might interest you. Basicly with my design there you could use and RB26 or RB30 crank as the base, and with modifications achieve a 2783cc capacity with the 87mm bore and 26 crank, or 3175cc with the RB30 crank (87mm bore). Both are high deck built in an RB26 block, long rod setups, sleeved blocks etc. The 3.2lt is 22mm taller than stock, and the 2.8lt is 12mm taller than stock. I hope to have a prototype engine in my R34 inside 3 months. Because im using a standard crank or rb30 crank as the basis and the rest is machining its a lot cheaper than a HKS kit and provides more capacity too.

[proengines]

The Tomei 2.8 kit into a 26 block is pretty much a bolt in job, you can get them with 86.5mm pistons as well, no need to go for a big bore. I did one late last year and there are no hassles doing it, just need to check and make sure there is enough clearance between the rods & bottom of the bore etc.. They supply spacers for the oil squirters and really good instructions if you read Japanese. It's still worth checking the balance on the Tomei kit though.

[unique1]

easiest and best option would be to sell your current built bottom end and buy a n1 block and hks kit and put it in once done, u would be crazy to pull yours apart and do everything again when u could just sell it as a bottom end ready to go.

[im late]

easiest and best option would be to sell your current built bottom end and buy a n1 block and hks kit and put it in once done, u would be crazy to pull yours apart and do everything again when u could just sell it as a bottom end ready to go.

I like that option.