Rb25det Struggles With Warm Starts

[Psyrus]

Hey guys,

Had the 33 series 2 for about 8 months now and this has been an ongoing problem however, [if I'm not imagining it] the problem has worsened somewhat as of late. Basically a cold start will generally take about 0.5-0.75 seconds of 'ignition' to turn the engine over and get it running, but if I try a warm start (after it's been running for a while) it will take a good 3-5 seconds of ignition and a few gas-pedal pumps before it will start up.

What could be a related problem to start-ups is when trying to start is sometimes it will begin to start but then go dead for half a sec (like the battery has been disconnected for a fraction of a second) but then it'll start fine.

I also suffer from the weird neutral-stall that Benzino33 experienced (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Problematic-Rb25det-t265210.html)... consensus appears to be split vacum hose perhaps or something.

I'm not very mechanically minded, so I'm just looking for some pointers; I've read through some of the related threads on the first page... I wouldn't even know where to start diagnosing

Aside from that, it's a really nice car... pity about the insurance/fuel/maintenance costs that come with them

[blind_elk]

Try disconnecting the temperature sender to the ECU. If it makes no difference, then it's likely the sender has failed, and the ECU thinks the engine is still cold. Warm engine doesn't need gallons of fuel to start.

[Benzino33]

Hey guys,

Had the 33 series 2 for about 8 months now and this has been an ongoing problem however, [if I'm not imagining it] the problem has worsened somewhat as of late. Basically a cold start will generally take about 0.5-0.75 seconds of 'ignition' to turn the engine over and get it running, but if I try a warm start (after it's been running for a while) it will take a good 3-5 seconds of ignition and a few gas-pedal pumps before it will start up.

What could be a related problem to start-ups is when trying to start is sometimes it will begin to start but then go dead for half a sec (like the battery has been disconnected for a fraction of a second) but then it'll start fine.

I also suffer from the weird neutral-stall that Benzino33 experienced (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Problematic-Rb25det-t265210.html)... consensus appears to be split vacum hose perhaps or something.

I'm not very mechanically minded, so I'm just looking for some pointers; I've read through some of the related threads on the first page... I wouldn't even know where to start diagnosing

Aside from that, it's a really nice car... pity about the insurance/fuel/maintenance costs that come with them

Hey bro, seems like our cars got more in common lol..I also got an ignition issue, the car doesnt turn on right, i think your problem's more related to your fuel pump. Mine sh*t itself a couple of weeks ago,,kept makin a lot of noise and wen i'd start the car, it would crank for a really long time at cold start, before actually starting. Try replacing yours with a good one, i did and it starts up fine. Good luck with it bro, Im slowly eliminating my problems, and soon my car should be fine. take it easy

[Psyrus]

Thanks for the advice guys, really appreciated

Will look at investigating the issues you've suggested... might take a while since I have my uni mid-semesters starting in 2 days then a heap of projects due. But I'll report back if I do eventually figure anything out.

[Psyrus]

Well here's an interesting development. Had a really warm start today [just ran into the shops to grab some phone credit] and when I came back to start, it cranked once and then died. Completely dead... dash lights came on like 20% luminosity, my defi gauge was dead and if the ignition was @ 'on', it would make a strange clicking noise from the boot of the car.

So anyway I thought maybe I'd let it cool but after leaving it for 20 mins it still wouldn't start. So I got someone to come down to pick me up since I figured it would have to be towed... on a hunch though I pulled out the jumper cables and attached them...

What do you know... instant start!

Does this mean my alternator is dying or dead... or what? I checked the battery area while it was making the clicking noises and the noise was coming from around the fuse box, but not in the fuse box from what I can tell [unless it was popping like 100 fuses ].

Will be calling up the place I bought it from tomorrow [since they do the servicing as well] and just check if it'd be best to take it to an auto-electrician or what (since they are about a 45 minute drive from me and I have uni during the week).

[Proximity Motorsport]

the clicking noise is probably just relays switching on and off. To me sounds like your battery has had it. Jump start the car, and get a multi meter onto your alternator and check what volts its putting out. If there is around 13.8volts at alternator and less at battery your battery is probably had it. But if alternator does not have that many volts its your alternator.

[Psyrus]

the clicking noise is probably just relays switching on and off. To me sounds like your battery has had it. Jump start the car, and get a multi meter onto your alternator and check what volts its putting out. If there is around 13.8volts at alternator and less at battery your battery is probably had it. But if alternator does not have that many volts its your alternator.

Thanks, will check that out ... Hope it's the battery although I think it's a newish battery (only had the car ~10 months) although I'm not sure if during the compliance it would've been changed. <$200 is way better than multiple hundreds of dollars for an alternator replacement (from what I understand).

[Psyrus]

For closure, I had the battery replaced with a NS55 because it was the only one that'd fit at the time, paid a bit more than I wanted to but meh....

Starts perfectly now, super happy

Thanks for the advice/help.