Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys and girls

i have an rb25det neo in a stagea which needs an oil change - i have just bought the car so this it the first time i have had to touch it.

ive driven it for 2000kms since owning it because of the belief it had been serviced just prior by the previous owner.

basically i want to do a filter swap and new oil, then another 2000kms do the same, then start the 5000km change process so every 5 or 0 on the odo means a service

i drive no more than 5kms to work from overnight parking where it sits in work's carpark, then i drive the same distance home again.

however on weekends the car usually does 2 stints of 100km trips to a neighbouring town.

typical overnight temp is about 15`C and daylight temp is 25`C for winter

i'm not hung up on achieving every little piece of hp available, i'd rather have a motor that lasts for another 70 000 kms and drive like it is new.

can someone suggest the best oil to use for this application and if organic or syn is the way to go for this motor.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265715-motor-oils/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey man,

most people on here including me have used and will tell you that motul 300v is the best of the best in terms of quality but at 150ish bux for 5 litres its not cheap

ive found that motul 8100 xcess is a great oil too at around 70bux; its 100% synthetic which has a high ranking out of all the oils too.

if you can find a dealer: performancelub etc that sells redline, thats a great bet too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265715-motor-oils/#findComment-4537555
Share on other sites

Hi Daniel,

The choice is pretty easy.

Motul 300v Chrono (10W40).... as Johnny said.

I have tried a ton of different oils as I used to do 5000km changes.

I have only used Synthetic oils though with the exception of one change (5000kms) of Royal Purple.

Shell Helix Ultra, Mobil 1, Motul 8100, Valvoline, Penrite Syn, Castrol Edge, Amsoil (10W40), RP, Nulon... cnbf trying to remember others...

I have been using 300v with 10,000km changes for the last 40,000kms and I can tell you that it is like a different engine when compared to the other oils.

Revs easier, "feels right" as opposed to others that felt too thin (mobil 1) or like the engine was being choked (Syn - only lasted 2 weeks, I couldn't stand it). The Motul 8100 left a black sludge which was removed with an engine cleaner at the next change.

If $150 every 10,000kms for oil is too much, I would probably go for the Nulon or Amsoil.....

..... but you did say you wanted to put something in that would have the engine running beautifully after 70,000kms.

Since you do a lot of short trips (my average trip TO work is 65kms), I would go with the best oil you can get.

Also, make sure you get a good quality filter. I can recommend either the K&N, Veruspeed or Amsoil oil filters.

The K&N should only set you back $20 and is very good quality.

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265715-motor-oils/#findComment-4537662
Share on other sites

I doubt that most people would 'feel' that much of a dramatic change. Nissan specify 7.5w30, and people on here use everything from semi synthetic Motul Turbolight 4100 to Redline or Motul 300v (insane to spend that much on oil for anything other than a track car IMO).

I personally use Motul 8100 5w40, which seems to make the turbo spool up slightly quicker than the Castrol EDGE 5w30 I ran previously. Take a look on the first page of the stickied oil thread for more info, I guess it goes as far as you want to read into the specifics of base stocks etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265715-motor-oils/#findComment-4537722
Share on other sites

i just dont want anything too thin so i get noisy lifters or will cause trouble with continual 1000km trips to brizzy and back

and i'm not looking for a track use oil, the car barely goes over 4grand and puts around

but i want something to protect the engine anfd turbo for those moments just after start up where you need to redlineit to avoid being hit by a truck etc

alright i'll look into a new k&n filter at this stage and have a gander

price plays a big part in what i chose

so rather than the best i should have specified bang for buck

Cheers and thanks for the swift replies

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265715-motor-oils/#findComment-4538485
Share on other sites

Mobil 1, a good alternative to the expensive as Motul 300V and better than Turbolite. I've been using it for years with good results, a mate has done extensive testing for more than a decade with engines coming out clean as.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265715-motor-oils/#findComment-4540467
Share on other sites

Nothing that in depth, but probably more than 1 million kms on various engines with the relevant parts coming out very nicely on it. Which is enough for me with an oil which is still bought to a price, I admit, being a personal decision as this is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265715-motor-oils/#findComment-4543943
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi there ..

I was confronted with the same problem, my Skyline needed an oilchange and I was wondering what the best treat would be.

I did a lot of reading and scrolled through many messages.

In addition I called the usual Skyline maintenance shops in the UK for a quote for an

oil change and it ranged from 200AUD to 270AUD.

They said they had just one high performance oil that they were using for their oil changes.

But since I don't race my Skyline that was too expensive (and a waste) for me.

In the end I used a synthetic oil 5W40 from BP.

The oil change did cost me around 110AUD with filter!

And that was done by a workshop where you just drive by without an appointment.

My recommendation is using a 5W40 or 10W50 oil of a well known brand.

It can be a semi synthetic or fully synthetic.

However, if you subject the car to a lot of load and rev it like hell on the track you should consider going for

one of the more expensive oils.

Cheers,

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265715-motor-oils/#findComment-4565765
Share on other sites

er... semi synthetic?? Negative on that.. full synthetic only.

Any high end brand will do... Motul 300v chrono 10-40... mobil 1 0-40.. etc etc.

Just to let you guys know the R35 GTR comes factory filled with mobil 1 0-40, same with a heap of other hi end performance cars including my 300c SRT 8. At around $85 dollars per 5 litres its not cheap (However, still cheaper the 300v chrono).

Before you say 0 - 40 is too thin, its not... its the same as the 300v chrono when warmed up. Its only thinner then the 300v chrono at cold start up. Which allows the oil to lubricate the engine faster. Once the engine warms up it will be the same thickness as the 300v Chrono. If its good enough for the 35 GTR im sure its good enough for yours =). This was also confirmed by a hi end performance workshop here in WA (xspeed).

My 2 cents.

O and ive been using Mobil 1 0-40 only in my r33 for the psat 2 years. Nothing to complain about.. and the cleaning properties it has gets all the crap out of the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265715-motor-oils/#findComment-4569368
Share on other sites

Hi ..

It all depends what load you impose on the engine.

In my case I drive a fairly standard R33GTSTS2 and I definitely don't need

no oil deemed for racing purposes.

:wub:

I will stick with 5W-40 in a good quality (Mobile, Shell, BP ..)

As long as the oil:

  1. Is shear-resistant
  2. Is thin enough at cold start to lubricate all parts quickly (so 5-W)
  3. Is thick enough at high temperatures
  4. Is suitable for turbo lubrication
  5. Makes the valve lifters happy
  6. Keeps the engine clean (no sludge buildup)

I'm fine with a 'standard' oil.

Here's a good article ..

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77396

Cheers,

Andrew

Edited by Torques
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265715-motor-oils/#findComment-4570135
Share on other sites

Mobil 1 0w40 should be changed every 5000km

Motul 300V 10w40 should be changed every 10,000km.

so $85/5000km for mobil 1 and $75/5000km for Motul 300V (5L for both)

Regardless of which oil i use, i will still change it at 5000kms. Its not like the oil wont get dirty...and if it doesn't, it means it aint cleaning the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265715-motor-oils/#findComment-4570410
Share on other sites

Regardless of which oil i use, i will still change it at 5000kms. Its not like the oil wont get dirty...and if it doesn't, it means it aint cleaning the engine.

I change the oil+filter if :

  • The oil looks quite dark/used
  • A certain time has passed (once a year at least)
  • Or a certain distance has been covered

Changing the oil every 5000km is definitely not a bad thing, but when using HQ oil (as you do) you could

probably extend the interval .. (unless you move the car on the track)

Cheers,

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265715-motor-oils/#findComment-4570426
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
    • Did this ever go further ? Would love some updated info 
×
×
  • Create New...