Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

main problem with spacers as I see it is the fact that you bolt on the spacers themselves onto the hub using the hub's studs ... and the studs are 20mm or so iirc. So you need spacers that are 20mm or more to cover the old studs otherwise they will be sticking out and you'll need to cut them down.

ie. you can't just put 10mm spacers and get away with it ..you would need to cut the old studs. Then there's the whole issue of legality ..they're completely illegal.

And if you use the spacers that don't come with their own studs ie. you use the original studs, then you reduce the length of the original studs by whatever the spacer size is which IS risky ..it means your wheels will have less stud to be bolted on to.

Trust me I've been thinking of doing this myself as everytime I see my rear wheels I wanna cry cause they're not as wide as they could/should be and been looking at spacers ... but whichever way you look at it, it's just not worth it. Best to sell your wheels and get new ones with the correct offset and width.

Edited by Delta Force
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265863-spacers/#findComment-4539746
Share on other sites

I think he only sells hub centric ones that have their own bolts ..not slipons that can be used with the Nismo longer studs ? Also i just read somewhere that the standard bolts are only 25mm and the Nismos are 60mm .. so unless you're planning on using 35mm spacers the studs will be portruding too much or maybe I'm missing something

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265863-spacers/#findComment-4540393
Share on other sites

interesting ..what's the length of the standard bolts? But still this doesn't resolve the issue of having no hub centre for the wheels to slip on to so your wheels would be resting on the bolts alone right ??

i would like to know the length of the standard studs as well. or at least how much of the standard stud sticks out past the hub

i have some bolt-on spacers I'm trying to remove as my new wheels dont need the spacers.

it looks like the standard studs have been removed from the hub and replaced with shorter studs to bolt the spacer to the hub

and then the standard studs go through the spacer to hold the wheel

is this normal for bolt-on spacers?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265863-spacers/#findComment-4540394
Share on other sites

in theory, there is nothing wrong with spacers, as long as the spacer itself isnt bad enough quality that its gonna fail.

the only thing a spacer does is introduce another mechanical connection, it DOES NOT create any extra strain on the standard hub/studs.

people mainly think spacers cause more strain on the standard hub because it creates more leverage, 2 points about this, 1: putting a spacer in there has no more effect on the standard hub then going a lower offset wheel (for instance putting a 25mm spacer on a +30 offset wheel is the same as going a +5 offset wheel). 2: if anything, ur reducing leverage in most cases as ur bringing the offset closer to 0 neutral (middle of the rim)

a spacer is effectively the same as offset, the only difference is instead of the extra metal on the mounting surface being casted on when the wheel was created, it is being connected there with a mechanical connection.

now as long as this mechanical connection is created with qaulity parts, there is no issue with this, when u put on new spacers, they are usually a lot less likely to fail than ur old worn standard items, so ultimately the weak link is usually in the standard existing mechanical connection, not the new one that u introduce.

but in the end, u are introducing another mechanical connection, which is A weak point that can fail, but usually not the weakest point.

now, all this is relying on the fact that everything is kept hubcentric, one of the biggest issues with spacers is people dont buy hubcentric spacers or they dont use hubcentric rings, now a lot of people dont use the hubcentric rings with their aftermarket wheels anyway, but when ur using spacers as well and u have 2 mechanical connections, ur doubling the issue. basically studs are only designed to take longitudinal force, when u dont keep things hubcentric (hub ring on mounting surface completely filling the centre hole in the rim, keeping it snug), the wheel is allowed to move sideways on the mounting surface, this introduces sheer force to the studs, which the studs are not designed for and have bugger all tolerance for, so they can fail.

the last point is make sure u loctite the nuts on the inside, not that there is a big chance they will loosen, its just if they do u wont know as u cant access them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265863-spacers/#findComment-4540957
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

are those spacers that justjap sell hubcentric?

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=269&page=1

im thinkin of using these, proberbly 15mm ones just to bring out my rear wheels inline with the guards (18x9.5" wide running strectched 235 tyres (+35 offset i think)

would i need to cut my hub bolts that are on my car now to make these fit? cos theres no way i'l be doin that...

any info would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265863-spacers/#findComment-4616071
Share on other sites

whats a hubcentric ring?

spacers_big.jpg

Rogue Engineering only sells hub centric spacers which replicate the factory hub lip on the outer face of the spacer. This ensures that your wheels positively engage with the spacer, centering them perfectly to avoid shimmy problems

Borrowed from here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265863-spacers/#findComment-4618060
Share on other sites

yeh they are often called hubcentric rings, hell i use it all the time myself, but really its not 100% correct as hubcentric refers to making the wheel's centrebore sit tight on the hub, and usually the spacer's hub ring is smaller than most centrebores, so u buy these little rings, mostly made out of plastic, and they slip over the hub, and fill up the gap between the hub and centrebore.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265863-spacers/#findComment-4618425
Share on other sites

hub rings are just metal rings made to fill the gap ... ie. if your wheel's centre hole is bigger than the hub centre there's gonna be a small gap when you fit the wheel on. So the hub rings is fitted on the hub lip to make it wider so that when you put your wheel on, it fits snugly...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265863-spacers/#findComment-4618808
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If that's the wiring from the factory, I'd be inspecting the loom everywhere.   Any signs of that anywhere else, and seriously, I'd get rid of the car ASAP before the electrical gremlins make it worthless, or it goes up in flames on its own. That is scary how that insulation is failing!
    • I should note too as I have all 4 wheel speed inputs to the emtron I now have the emtron controlling the attessa solenoid for 4wd/traction and launch control strategies. 
    • It works quite well with the adjustibility within each of the programs of the turbolamik. Essentially p1 is drive and lockup comes on like a normal driver.  But in program 7 I have customised it to not request the lockup clutch to engage until something like 6500/7 when slip was the lowest. 
    • Yep, I like that. The tags are only on the first post of a thread and we don't get huge numbers of new threads. Also, I plan to add some more report types and we could have a member report type like 'review tags' then members could flag if they thought a topic wasn't tagged correctly.  No way man, I dig the input. Thanks! 
    • It's a valid thought. There's not exactly that functionality already (when creating a thread) - that's where the OP can use/create any tag they want. We'd have to come up with a way for the user to request their tags get reviewed or something. Otherwise the mods would have to review every new post's tags (for those that have them, anyway). There's kind of that functionality already exists to some extent, post facto of starting the thread, where the OP or any other user could report the post to admins, and request that tags get reviewed. We could do this already, and any user could already have made such a request. To make it a part of the forum proper, it would require an initial and an ongoing education programme, so that people know that it's a thing. OP based tagging/request for review would also require at least some (probably most) of the user base to be told that it's a thing they can do. Both of these things probably wouldn't spread too far and/or get used very much. If it was the standard approach on a lot of different sites, then it might do, because people would be used to it. Prank's approach to this differs from my original thought, by leaning into tagging. Which is fine - it's possibly better than what I originally suggested. In fact, I just went to the R32 GTR wiring diagram thread and added tags, including "Library". That's probably a good way to use tags and the idea of a library. We just have to drag together an (organised!) index of threads or posts that have that tag. I have yet to do any of my own follow up by pursuing worthy threads and posts and reporting/marking/tagging them for the library, such as the @Sydneykid stuff I was talking about, and possibly any amount of @Lithium 's and others' posts. At least if I tag them Library, we'll have a start.   Back to @Wazmond's idea as it relates to @PranK's, we might have some sort of a list of tags that are already used to scrape for this library. I'm not entirely sure how that would be presented or used, particularly if it got long. But it's yet another idea!   cheers
×
×
  • Create New...