Jump to content
SAU Community

Really Weird Problem...any Help?

heyhey!

By heyhey!,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Damo_c Collaborator

Damo_c

Posted
Posted (edited)

OK, so 2 days ago i took my car to the mechanic cos it was overheating, found out it was a water pump, so got that fixed aswell as a new timing chain,air con belt replaced and top chamber of the radiaitor, he took the solinoid out so to order a new one whilst i went to work the next day. Now the car sounded like a WRX from 800 - 1200 rpm, only on idle and when i took off then is fine after that. I drove it to work today cos i needed to, not cos i wanted to and guess what, after 8kms up the road it oveheated. I took it back to the mechanic and he did a pressure test in the radiator and said my head gasket has gone........Have you had problems like the car over heating or anything like that.

Not to say your head gasket has gone but the poping like a wrx from idle to just after i took off i believe could be a timing problem with my car as what i think you are trying to describe.

I could be wrong tho!!!

Edited by Damo_c
SXC-R34 Collaborator

SXC-R34

Posted
Posted

I got the same problem it doesn't happen all the time though, it's only once in a while, but it is same as your problem. I think it is a coil pack, best way to find out start the car and just let it idle, pop up your bonnet and pull out the coil packs 1 by 1. So pull the first 1 out and see what the car does if it starts to sound different then it's NOT that 1. So put that 1 back and pull out the next 1, keep doing this until you pull 1 of them out and you see that it's making no difference, because then that means that coil pack is F**ked.

In other words, your car now on idle sounds rough, pull out your coil packs 1 by 1 and put back in. Everytime you pull 1 out it should sound rougher, and if you pull 1 out and it doesn't sound any rougher than that 1 is f**ked. By the way if it does that at more than 1 coil than you could have more than 1 F**ked coil.

Good luck, I hope it's NOT that neway cause coil packs aren't cheap. And I hope that helped

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Or rather than trying to remove coil-packs one-by one (when they're bolted together...), you can do a proper power-balance test, as previously mentioned above.

Sorry to sound a little cynical, but we seem to be covering the same ground over & again.

SXC-R34 Collaborator

SXC-R34

Posted
Posted
Or rather than trying to remove coil-packs one-by one (when they're bolted together...)

Well sorry but they not bolted TOGATHER on my engine (RB25 NEO). I'm talking about pulling out the coils off from the top of the spark plugs. That takes lituraly 2 seconds. It's worth a try.

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted

I had a similar issue with my beema; would run on 5 cylinders on startup and low revs but once driving, the car came to life again.....tried the coilpack pull out thing and found which one was faulty so i replaced them all and the problem was fixed.

i hope this is the problem....goodluck

turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted

If you have an RB engine with multiple coil packs, and it's mis-firing on idle, it's pretty easy and quick to Id the cylinder at fault (if it's a constant cylinder problem, and not switching).

Remove the coil cover, start up the engine, and as it's idling and mis-firing, remove 1 coil loom plug and wait 10 seconds. If the engine gets worse, or stalls, then replace the loom, start the engine and move on to the next loomplug.

Repeat the above until you find that plugging in or removing the coil plug makes absolutely no difference to the running of the engine, and you have found the cylinder that is not firing, or firing only on occasions.

Logic behind it:

you have a 6 cylinder engine which is only running on 5 cylinders (for logic sake, cylinder 2 is the problem).

You start the engine, you can hear it mis-firing, you remove the coil pack for cylinder 1, it gets worse (because now it's trying to be a CA and run on 4 cylinders).

You plug cylinder 1 in, start the engine, remove the plug for cylinder 2, but it makes no difference. This is because cylinder 2 is not working anyway, so plugged in, or unplugged, it's not firing.

Continuing to 3, 4, 5, or 6 wont matter, you have found the problem, and continuing will result in the same as Cylinder 1 anyway.

B.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • sonicii
      Lower A arm Skyline v35

      By sonicii · Posted

      The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Red Sky II
      Looking for autoelectrician in Perth who can do the OEM to double din stereo upgrade.

      By Red Sky II · Posted

      Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...