Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, so 2 days ago i took my car to the mechanic cos it was overheating, found out it was a water pump, so got that fixed aswell as a new timing chain,air con belt replaced and top chamber of the radiaitor, he took the solinoid out so to order a new one whilst i went to work the next day. Now the car sounded like a WRX from 800 - 1200 rpm, only on idle and when i took off then is fine after that. I drove it to work today cos i needed to, not cos i wanted to and guess what, after 8kms up the road it oveheated. I took it back to the mechanic and he did a pressure test in the radiator and said my head gasket has gone........Have you had problems like the car over heating or anything like that.

Not to say your head gasket has gone but the poping like a wrx from idle to just after i took off i believe could be a timing problem with my car as what i think you are trying to describe.

I could be wrong tho!!!

Edited by Damo_c

I got the same problem it doesn't happen all the time though, it's only once in a while, but it is same as your problem. I think it is a coil pack, best way to find out start the car and just let it idle, pop up your bonnet and pull out the coil packs 1 by 1. So pull the first 1 out and see what the car does if it starts to sound different then it's NOT that 1. So put that 1 back and pull out the next 1, keep doing this until you pull 1 of them out and you see that it's making no difference, because then that means that coil pack is F**ked.

In other words, your car now on idle sounds rough, pull out your coil packs 1 by 1 and put back in. Everytime you pull 1 out it should sound rougher, and if you pull 1 out and it doesn't sound any rougher than that 1 is f**ked. By the way if it does that at more than 1 coil than you could have more than 1 F**ked coil.

Good luck, I hope it's NOT that neway cause coil packs aren't cheap. And I hope that helped

Or rather than trying to remove coil-packs one-by one (when they're bolted together...), you can do a proper power-balance test, as previously mentioned above.

Sorry to sound a little cynical, but we seem to be covering the same ground over & again.

Or rather than trying to remove coil-packs one-by one (when they're bolted together...)

Well sorry but they not bolted TOGATHER on my engine (RB25 NEO). I'm talking about pulling out the coils off from the top of the spark plugs. That takes lituraly 2 seconds. It's worth a try.

I had a similar issue with my beema; would run on 5 cylinders on startup and low revs but once driving, the car came to life again.....tried the coilpack pull out thing and found which one was faulty so i replaced them all and the problem was fixed.

i hope this is the problem....goodluck

If you have an RB engine with multiple coil packs, and it's mis-firing on idle, it's pretty easy and quick to Id the cylinder at fault (if it's a constant cylinder problem, and not switching).

Remove the coil cover, start up the engine, and as it's idling and mis-firing, remove 1 coil loom plug and wait 10 seconds. If the engine gets worse, or stalls, then replace the loom, start the engine and move on to the next loomplug.

Repeat the above until you find that plugging in or removing the coil plug makes absolutely no difference to the running of the engine, and you have found the cylinder that is not firing, or firing only on occasions.

Logic behind it:

you have a 6 cylinder engine which is only running on 5 cylinders (for logic sake, cylinder 2 is the problem).

You start the engine, you can hear it mis-firing, you remove the coil pack for cylinder 1, it gets worse (because now it's trying to be a CA and run on 4 cylinders).

You plug cylinder 1 in, start the engine, remove the plug for cylinder 2, but it makes no difference. This is because cylinder 2 is not working anyway, so plugged in, or unplugged, it's not firing.

Continuing to 3, 4, 5, or 6 wont matter, you have found the problem, and continuing will result in the same as Cylinder 1 anyway.

B.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...