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OK, so 2 days ago i took my car to the mechanic cos it was overheating, found out it was a water pump, so got that fixed aswell as a new timing chain,air con belt replaced and top chamber of the radiaitor, he took the solinoid out so to order a new one whilst i went to work the next day. Now the car sounded like a WRX from 800 - 1200 rpm, only on idle and when i took off then is fine after that. I drove it to work today cos i needed to, not cos i wanted to and guess what, after 8kms up the road it oveheated. I took it back to the mechanic and he did a pressure test in the radiator and said my head gasket has gone........Have you had problems like the car over heating or anything like that.

Not to say your head gasket has gone but the poping like a wrx from idle to just after i took off i believe could be a timing problem with my car as what i think you are trying to describe.

I could be wrong tho!!!

Edited by Damo_c

I got the same problem it doesn't happen all the time though, it's only once in a while, but it is same as your problem. I think it is a coil pack, best way to find out start the car and just let it idle, pop up your bonnet and pull out the coil packs 1 by 1. So pull the first 1 out and see what the car does if it starts to sound different then it's NOT that 1. So put that 1 back and pull out the next 1, keep doing this until you pull 1 of them out and you see that it's making no difference, because then that means that coil pack is F**ked.

In other words, your car now on idle sounds rough, pull out your coil packs 1 by 1 and put back in. Everytime you pull 1 out it should sound rougher, and if you pull 1 out and it doesn't sound any rougher than that 1 is f**ked. By the way if it does that at more than 1 coil than you could have more than 1 F**ked coil.

Good luck, I hope it's NOT that neway cause coil packs aren't cheap. And I hope that helped

Or rather than trying to remove coil-packs one-by one (when they're bolted together...), you can do a proper power-balance test, as previously mentioned above.

Sorry to sound a little cynical, but we seem to be covering the same ground over & again.

Or rather than trying to remove coil-packs one-by one (when they're bolted together...)

Well sorry but they not bolted TOGATHER on my engine (RB25 NEO). I'm talking about pulling out the coils off from the top of the spark plugs. That takes lituraly 2 seconds. It's worth a try.

I had a similar issue with my beema; would run on 5 cylinders on startup and low revs but once driving, the car came to life again.....tried the coilpack pull out thing and found which one was faulty so i replaced them all and the problem was fixed.

i hope this is the problem....goodluck

If you have an RB engine with multiple coil packs, and it's mis-firing on idle, it's pretty easy and quick to Id the cylinder at fault (if it's a constant cylinder problem, and not switching).

Remove the coil cover, start up the engine, and as it's idling and mis-firing, remove 1 coil loom plug and wait 10 seconds. If the engine gets worse, or stalls, then replace the loom, start the engine and move on to the next loomplug.

Repeat the above until you find that plugging in or removing the coil plug makes absolutely no difference to the running of the engine, and you have found the cylinder that is not firing, or firing only on occasions.

Logic behind it:

you have a 6 cylinder engine which is only running on 5 cylinders (for logic sake, cylinder 2 is the problem).

You start the engine, you can hear it mis-firing, you remove the coil pack for cylinder 1, it gets worse (because now it's trying to be a CA and run on 4 cylinders).

You plug cylinder 1 in, start the engine, remove the plug for cylinder 2, but it makes no difference. This is because cylinder 2 is not working anyway, so plugged in, or unplugged, it's not firing.

Continuing to 3, 4, 5, or 6 wont matter, you have found the problem, and continuing will result in the same as Cylinder 1 anyway.

B.

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