Jump to content
SAU Community

Really Weird Problem...any Help?

heyhey!

By heyhey!,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Damo_c Collaborator

Damo_c

Posted
Posted (edited)

OK, so 2 days ago i took my car to the mechanic cos it was overheating, found out it was a water pump, so got that fixed aswell as a new timing chain,air con belt replaced and top chamber of the radiaitor, he took the solinoid out so to order a new one whilst i went to work the next day. Now the car sounded like a WRX from 800 - 1200 rpm, only on idle and when i took off then is fine after that. I drove it to work today cos i needed to, not cos i wanted to and guess what, after 8kms up the road it oveheated. I took it back to the mechanic and he did a pressure test in the radiator and said my head gasket has gone........Have you had problems like the car over heating or anything like that.

Not to say your head gasket has gone but the poping like a wrx from idle to just after i took off i believe could be a timing problem with my car as what i think you are trying to describe.

I could be wrong tho!!!

Edited by Damo_c
SXC-R34 Collaborator

SXC-R34

Posted
Posted

I got the same problem it doesn't happen all the time though, it's only once in a while, but it is same as your problem. I think it is a coil pack, best way to find out start the car and just let it idle, pop up your bonnet and pull out the coil packs 1 by 1. So pull the first 1 out and see what the car does if it starts to sound different then it's NOT that 1. So put that 1 back and pull out the next 1, keep doing this until you pull 1 of them out and you see that it's making no difference, because then that means that coil pack is F**ked.

In other words, your car now on idle sounds rough, pull out your coil packs 1 by 1 and put back in. Everytime you pull 1 out it should sound rougher, and if you pull 1 out and it doesn't sound any rougher than that 1 is f**ked. By the way if it does that at more than 1 coil than you could have more than 1 F**ked coil.

Good luck, I hope it's NOT that neway cause coil packs aren't cheap. And I hope that helped

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Or rather than trying to remove coil-packs one-by one (when they're bolted together...), you can do a proper power-balance test, as previously mentioned above.

Sorry to sound a little cynical, but we seem to be covering the same ground over & again.

SXC-R34 Collaborator

SXC-R34

Posted
Posted
Or rather than trying to remove coil-packs one-by one (when they're bolted together...)

Well sorry but they not bolted TOGATHER on my engine (RB25 NEO). I'm talking about pulling out the coils off from the top of the spark plugs. That takes lituraly 2 seconds. It's worth a try.

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted

I had a similar issue with my beema; would run on 5 cylinders on startup and low revs but once driving, the car came to life again.....tried the coilpack pull out thing and found which one was faulty so i replaced them all and the problem was fixed.

i hope this is the problem....goodluck

turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted

If you have an RB engine with multiple coil packs, and it's mis-firing on idle, it's pretty easy and quick to Id the cylinder at fault (if it's a constant cylinder problem, and not switching).

Remove the coil cover, start up the engine, and as it's idling and mis-firing, remove 1 coil loom plug and wait 10 seconds. If the engine gets worse, or stalls, then replace the loom, start the engine and move on to the next loomplug.

Repeat the above until you find that plugging in or removing the coil plug makes absolutely no difference to the running of the engine, and you have found the cylinder that is not firing, or firing only on occasions.

Logic behind it:

you have a 6 cylinder engine which is only running on 5 cylinders (for logic sake, cylinder 2 is the problem).

You start the engine, you can hear it mis-firing, you remove the coil pack for cylinder 1, it gets worse (because now it's trying to be a CA and run on 4 cylinders).

You plug cylinder 1 in, start the engine, remove the plug for cylinder 2, but it makes no difference. This is because cylinder 2 is not working anyway, so plugged in, or unplugged, it's not firing.

Continuing to 3, 4, 5, or 6 wont matter, you have found the problem, and continuing will result in the same as Cylinder 1 anyway.

B.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • GTSBoy
      braided lines for the turbos

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • sunsetR33
      braided lines for the turbos

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...