Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Just wondering if anyone has ever purchased a car from NSW to QLD. I would like to hear people expriences who have done this ?

1. How did you transport the car ? drove it up / or transport company

2. If driving it back up to QLD what registration does it involve ?

3. How much roughly dose it costs to transport a car ?

Thanks for everyones help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266006-purchasing-a-car-interstate/
Share on other sites

My V35 was trucked up from NSW to QLD cost was built into purchase price but on average I'd say around $300 - $500 depending on who you use. Car had 3 months NSW rego courtesy of car yard, so I drove it in QLD until it had about a week left, then went and got a safety certificate (most mechanics can do this, usual chk on tyres, leaks, rust etc...just roadworthy stuff) , took it to QLD transport and got new plates for it and that was it, easy.

I would never truck it..

As "Great ocean road" and your new "dream" car comes into play...*pants tighten*

I would always make sure you drop the oil, plugs, filters and what not after i buy 2nd hand cars.

couldnt hurt to do a coolant flush too.

Hi guys

Just wondering if anyone has ever purchased a car from NSW to QLD. I would like to hear people expriences who have done this ?

1. How did you transport the car ? drove it up / or transport company

2. If driving it back up to QLD what registration does it involve ?

3. How much roughly dose it costs to transport a car ?

Thanks for everyones help

1 - drove it. got unlicence car approval from RTA

2- went to RTA with original owner got temp rego - paid $35. tossed my trade plate on it when I crossed the border.

tried to do a trade plate from sydney to brisbane - told by the police not to as I would be driving a unregistered vehicle. this is a bit of a grey area and hot potato as I go 4 different answers from 4 different stations and the RTA. one said yes I could 3 said no. I took the safe option.

3 last one I trucked from sydney was $600 to rosewood - that was in '06. when I drove the last one up it took $110 to do it inc rego and 10 hours travel that was june 08.

Edited by Chris Rogers

I'd drive it.

However I made the mistake of driving a RX7 with no more than 50mm of clearance from Townsville to Brisbane in a single night, needless to say pretty much all my suspension bushes were f**ked and I had to purchase a brand new coilover kit.

Would definitly reccommend you drive it back. Drove my rx7 from Sydney back to Bundaberg because it still had nsw rego on it and had so much fun. Some really nice fun roads along the way and i learnt so much about the car in such a short time.

Drove it round for a couple of months till the rego ran out then went and got a road worthy and took it to queensland transport.

Drive up.. you can leave their plates on it then.. Get a RWC done, then take the plates and RWC to QLD transport. They give you new plates and a refund (NSW Trasport do but can be done through QLD Transport) on the remaining amount..

I wouldnt necessarily recommenfd driving around for the remainder of the rego (depending on what's left) as you want the car in your name, and if there is mods/etc that won't pass RWC then you have time in which to get them sorted.. Buying from dealer ensures that you got a good chance of passing RWC but you still never know..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...