Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

nothing wrong with Rexes. Yes, lots of them are owned by wankers, but then again so are a lot of Skylines, v8's, rotaries, etc. etc.

I owned a MY02 from new and at the track, the only Skylines that beat me were highly modded GTR's, and even then I whipped them in the wet. GTSt's didn't even come close - wet or dry. This was at a proper race track, none of this 400m wank. I'm sure that a well modified GTSt in the right hands would have been quicker, but none of the ones I raced were that quick. I'd sold an R32 GTST to buy the WRX, and much as I loved the Skyline, the WRX was all round a better car (being over 10 years newer obviously played a big part of that). Yes, they do tend to understeer under power, but that's no more of a problem than something that wants to spin whenever you get on the power. Both can be controlled at the track unless you're a total gimp behind the wheel,

As others have said, it's all about horses for courses. If you like WRX's, go for it (personally I'd buy an unmodified one, as they can be fragile is mistreated). I do like Skylines (hey, I like anything that's fast) but I can also appreciate what good all round packages WRX's are. I just picked up an MY09 hatch, and the performance blows me away. No other road car has put such a big smile on my dial in a long time.

Plus how many Rex's do you see on the road, you can't go 100 metres without seeing some dude trying to flick it sideways! :dry:

you've just gotta know how to drive it, replaced the front and rear swaybar links with solid aluminium ones from mrt...

you could upset it under braking and step it out (not heaps... not like rallying) ... and then launch forwards and pull through the corner. you dont take the corner like you would in a skyline.. where you start wide, hit the apex, leave wide and throttle on after the apex... smooth and controlled.

in a rex you come in wide, jam on the brakes and turn in, step the back out, aim it at the exit and punch it passed the apex.

every car is different to drive, thats why its best to get a new car to the track and find its limits and its reactions.. that is the only true test to how a car behaves.

Buy a VW, they sound the same as a WRX.

Always disappoints me to hear "bracketa bracketa bracketa pop pop" coming down the road and it turns out to be a Sewingbee and not a VW.

Anyone that calls a flat 4 boxer engine a "horizontally opposed boxer engine" is more wank than willy.

Horizontally opposed boxer engine indeed.......Being a boxer engine what else could it be than horizontally opposed?

Making the obvious sound fancy does not add kw. Does add to the wank factor by 1 though.

Ladyman or ladies man?

In the original post it was stated it was going to be kept pretty stock with basic mods. A wrx with basic mods is a pretty cool little car and personally i like them, they are great fun to drive and pretty decent value. I dont see anything wrong with swapping from your r33 gtst to a wrx and i consider it an upgrade. I love my skylines dont get me wrong but for this situation i think the wrx would be the better vehicle. Please dont flame me for putting my point of view across!! its just that, a point of view, its not gospel.

Edited by mrsparkle
#4 Those who've switched from a WRX to an EVO or 'Line

Err no. They would fall under category 2.

Only three kinds, No more. No less

Yes, I AM taking the pi$$. To each their own, and that will never change. Ask the same question on a WRX forum and you'll get more of a WRX bias, but most will probably still agree that the Skylines are also a very good car. No point trying to force your own opinion onto someone else. If the dude likes Rexes, let him buy one. He won't be disappointed. He might stick with them, or he might want to go back to a Skyline. Personally I haven't gone back, but wouldn't mind owning another one day. Maybe when I clear some other cars out of the shed.

Question you SHOULD be asking is "Why would anyone buy a rex over an EVO?"

find me a brand new EVO for under $40k on the road and I'll buy one. Till then, the Rex does me fine, thanks very much.

would destroy 90% of the GTSTs out there period

Lol your kidding me right? Raced plenty of WRX's, had a bit of fun with my mates 02 WRX the other day with an sti engine and box, VF turbo upgrade, fuel system, ecu etc etc. Supposibly has 215-220@all four and I left it for dead, wasn't impressed at all.

#4 Those who've switched from a WRX to an EVO or 'Line

#5 Those who DONT want a WRX.

Though I wouldnt mind grabbing the model after the bug-eye - have looked at grabbing one of those but decided against.

May not be applicable, but i'll throw in my 2c.

I used to own a 2005 STi - the car was a beast. I twin-scrolled it, HKS 2835 turbo etc. Sounded porn and went hard. My brother currently owns an Evo IX and, without a doubt, it is a better car. Comes on boost immediately and the handling is precise. You can throw them into corners at stupid speeds and just floor it. Go for the Evo. They can make some power, too, and will give most cars a good run for their money in a straight line and will leave you for dead around corners.

#5 Those who DONT want a WRX.

Refer #3 above

Though I wouldnt mind grabbing the model after the bug-eye - have looked at grabbing one of those but decided against.

C'mon. It's OK to admit your secret desires. It's a perfectly natural emotion, afterall :blush:

Hi There People!

Ive had my line coming up three years now. And not that im falling out of love of it. Im thinking of the wrx because i love the sound and i want a 4 door but dont want to get a family car. and also would like the AWD. my line is 96 r33 series 2 m-spec with 140k on the clock... and im looking at selling that and getting a 2000 or less model wrx... :P

What should I do?

I know this is skyline forum but im hoping for people in similar situations rather then pure skyline lovers.

wrx r gay and gtr,s will blow its doors off anyway lol

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...