Wheel Spacers - How Much Is Enough?

[Spunky Munky]

Hi fellas,

I am getting some new 19 inch rims with some dish soon and want them to sit a bit outside my guards to give it that tough stance that R33's ought to have... I am planning to also flare my rear guards out so having my rear rims/tyres spaced out is a must...

I am new to all this, can someone please provide me with some guidance...e.g. where to get spaces, how much extra width is enough and some pictures would be super...

Many thanks,

Kevin

[mitchy_]

buy rims with the correct width/offset in the first place.

[Spunky Munky]

I do mate, but I want that tough stance...is having too much width bad for the car/tyres?

[JMW]

nisskid would be the bloke to ask about this, pretty spot on with his stuff

[nisskid]

ok, if u want the tough stance ur gonna have to lose the 19's, chances are they are tempe specials with shitty offsets, i could be wrong, but i doubt it. if u want that tough stance with wheels out of the guards, 18x10 +20ish, 245/45's, modify guards to suit (should be just a roll), done.

19's do not look tough on 33's, they look SXC that ud be NVS of, leave them for the sex spec cars, real men run >18" with low offset.

note: R34 GTR's can pull off 19's, V35's and 350's can pull it off too, but it needs to be done right, a lot of fiddling with fitment to get them acceptable.

[nisskid]

nisskid would be the bloke to ask about this, pretty spot on with his stuff

haha im never far when there's someone in offset trouble.

[simpletool]

Wow 10" width with +20 offset. That'd be fat.

I've got rolled rear lip and my 17 x 9" +38 measure 15mm space left before touching inside of guards with 255/40 tyres. So that'd be 17 x 9 +23 and it'd be just touching the rolled guards.

[nisskid]

ud be amazed what bit of tyre stretch a set of balls can do.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

spacers not needed... just get the right offset...

how far do you wanna go?

here's mine...

that's 18 x 9.5 +30

do you want more?

[Spunky Munky]

spacers not needed... just get the right offset...

how far do you wanna go?

here's mine...

that's 18 x 9.5 +30

do you want more?

Hi mate,

This is exactly what I want my rims to look like...exactly!!

So I should get 30mm spacers for both my front and rears then...ok, noted...the question is where to get these...I am absolutely clueless about spacers, please give me some details, i.e. brand, measurements and price?

More pictures of your car please...it looks really tough...any pics of it from the front?

Thanks fellas...

[nisskid]

what size tyre?

if u go wider rim, and maintain tyre size, u can have the rim sticking out further, but the actual tyre tread stays in the same place, its the sidewall which makes up the extra width. this means u get the look of the wheels sticking out further, but having almost exactly the same clearance.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

no.... the WHEELS are +30, there are NO spacers....

all wheels have 3 dimentions...

size (17", 18", etc)

width (9.5", 10" etc)

offset (+20, +12, -1 etc)

offset is the distance from the hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel...

so my rims are 9.5" wide with an offset of +30

that means that the dead centre of my wheels is offset positively by 30mm from the mounting surface.

the LOWER the offset the MORE they stick out

if i were to have say +12 offset the wheels would stick out an extra 18mm

see how the front wheels have a HIGHER offset than the rear's

any questions?

18 x 9.5 + 30 side on:

this is a link to a dyno run of my car... its the only photo i have of the new front end... also notice the lack of indicators as per your other thread

[Taso84]

Wouldn't get spacers mate,

Having loose spacers is dangerous (especially if u give ur car a hard time around corners) and you risk having ur insurance claim denied (if they cause you to crash).

Better off getting the right offset.

Edited April 22, 2009 by Taso84

[mid life crisis]

just remember the further you push the wheel out esp on the front . the more load it places on the wheelbearings and stub axle

hate to see a front wheel rolling down the road not attached to the car .

[Spunky Munky]

Thanks to all for your info...I guess I'll just stick to current rims without spacers and get new rims with the proper offset later.

Thanks to JJJ for your informative write up on offsets...cheers mate...your car looks really clean and tough!

[Spunky Munky]

no.... the WHEELS are +30, there are NO spacers....

all wheels have 3 dimentions...

size (17", 18", etc)

width (9.5", 10" etc)

offset (+20, +12, -1 etc)

offset is the distance from the hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel...

so my rims are 9.5" wide with an offset of +30

that means that the dead centre of my wheels is offset positively by 30mm from the mounting surface.

the LOWER the offset the MORE they stick out

if i were to have say +12 offset the wheels would stick out an extra 18mm

see how the front wheels have a HIGHER offset than the rear's

any questions?

18 x 9.5 + 30 side on:

this is a link to a dyno run of my car... its the only photo i have of the new front end... also notice the lack of indicators as per your other thread

Thanks for the very informative write up mate...btw, what mods does your car have 300 kws is shitloads of power for a RWD...wow...

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

stock internals, HKS 2835 pro s (.68), pfc, datalogit, injectors, afm, fuel pump, ex cam gear, clutch, fmic, coils, caster, camber, pineapples, sway's, struts, mech diff, rotors, pads, cosmetic shit

runs 311 on e85 (270 on pulp)

[Taso84]

Hey Hamish,

What type of mech diff do you have? 1 way, 2way or 1.5 way?

[nisskid]

just remember the further you push the wheel out esp on the front . the more load it places on the wheelbearings and stub axle

hate to see a front wheel rolling down the road not attached to the car .

really? i would have thought the mounting surface being closer to the centre of the wheel (where the load is spread more evenly each side) would have been beneficial.

2 points here, biggest cause of failure there is from harsh bumps in the road, not from cornering force, here the car sits static with almost always negative camber, this means staticly there is more force on the inside of the wheel, and when u hit a bump the suspension compresses, causing more dynamic negative camber, putting even more stress towards the inside of the wheel.

so if the stress here is put on the inside of the wheel, putting the mounting surface closer to the inside of the wheel, or at least closer to the middle, means the load is spread more evenly at the mounting surface, and there is less leverage.

hard to explain, this might help:

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

Hey Hamish,

What type of mech diff do you have? 1 way, 2way or 1.5 way?

nismo 1.5 TT