Decided To Make My Nur Up For Track/street

[bombtrack]

Please don't paint a millenium jade NUR (unless you're touching it up with more millenium jade)... baby jesus will cry

[Mizzi]

The mods that "Phatboy" said, is exatly what i had in mind, but there is no way i will strip it down and use for track only, i wan't it for street but able to be awesome on track too. Won't be on the track much anyway, my goal is "awesome off its head street car".

With the re spray, i still have to look into it, just for the fact when it comes a time for a clean up, removing rock chips e.t.c... I am worried it won't come exatly the same tone and flip. Therefore doing something differn't, e.g the new GTR titanium grey, it won't matter. Therefore it will look differn't to other nurs aswell.

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

^^Hah!

Just stick to Millennium Jade.

One of the reasons you bought it, is because of the colour.

[DRD-00F]

modding it? fine. Tracking it? fine. Painting it? NO!

There were only 750 Nur specs made, that's not a big number. Then there were even fewer M specs, and a lot fewer in millenium jade.

Painting it to a rather standard looking colour would be a BIG mistake for so many reasons!

But in the end it is your car and you are free to with it as you wish, but don't expect everyone to like the decisions you make

[N1GTR]

Painting it anything but JWO is fking stupid.

Tracking it is smart though! Why have a GTR and not use it?!

Luckily you've already got some great bits of gear already on there, id be adding a catch can, brakes (alcons seem to be the fav from the racepace addicts, or maybe ap racing), stock rims with RE55's (get another set of rims for street if you dont want to wear out the good tyres putting around town) and a good ECU. Enjoy!

[Mizzi]

i thin i will keep it millenium jade, but just worried about how it will turn out after a re spray in the same colour later on thats all. oh and deffinatley modding it up.

[N1GTR]

Fu(k yeah thats the spirit. Dont worry about anyone here saying to leave it stock if you dont want to, as an "off its head street car" you're already a long way closer to reaching that goal than most people are when they buy a new skyline.

Plus if you follow the proven path of mods (search the forced induction area, also the RB26 results thread) you'll have a car thats not only great looking but a real monster once you put the right foot down.

Good luck with it

[N1GTR]

BTW show us more pics

[adznight]

I went through this thought exercise a while ago and this was my conclusion

a) if you modify the nur in a way that is irreversible, you are $20k+ in a hole

right at the outset due to loss in resale value, and have almost no advantage over the cheaper

v-spec ii except for your N1 block which can be had for $3k if required.

Even if you keep all the stock items the modification will be detectable (it will damage the

car slightly) PLUS you gotta pay $2k+ to reverse them at sale time, sell all your parts at a

loss. etc. And every change makes your car more of a pain to drive around town.

b) you'll be told by tuners that to make the car competitive on anything but the long tracks you need

weight reduction, roll cage, and so on. Without a roll cage, you may bend the chassis if you

run around on slicks. Look at the motorsport forum to see the lengths required to make an R34

competitive on shorter tracks, time attacks and so on. Even a track R32 is a major project.

c) if you shoot for a stock looking street/track car and don't have any illusions about domination on

a track, and don't mind seeing your Nur being damaged somewhat plus

possible drive train or engine damage.. (and therefore resale).. then how about just shoot for

1.4bar, a fat exhaust, good intake, hard pipes, cam gears, a sports radiator and oil cooler and

an ecu, and any remaining dollars on rims, coilovers, anti roll bars and make it nismo parts if

possible. That gives you the "thrill" of spending sub $20k including labor and you've get 300 awkw

not that much lag AND you might find a buyer one day who regards these

changes as not ruining the nur, and anyway they are certainly reversible with almost no sign

they were there (unless you start posting about your times and so on).

honestly though you'd be better off trading from a nur to a stock R34, then using that cash to build

up the R34. Or trading directly from a nur to a built R34 (just as cheap as a stock one) and

"adjusting" the build to suit your aims..

Or trade from a nur to a stock R34, then buy a dedicated track car.

Or sell the nur and buy an Exige, put some money into the engine and dominate everything.

Or sell the nur and buy an Evo 8, put more money into it and dominate most things.

Haha...I like you

[Snowman]

If you want to track it I say go for it. It has a good engine and turbo's already that can stay for a great track/street set-up so you are ahead already. So what if it's a NUR - they really aren't that amazing over a V Spec II other than the numbers of them so if it's a known good car then I'd say thats a great place to start for a track toy.

For parts #1 you need is an oil coolers (I know the N1's got one but not sure about the NUR's? If not get one 1st with a remote filter point). From there an exhaust, cam gears, nismo clutch and Power FC. With good tyres and some decent skill thats going to be a low 1.20 Sandown, sub 1.50 PI car right there.

Brakes and shocks will improve the feel of the car and give you more confidence if not a massive drops in time - but good shocks will improve even your street driving feel (stock R34 shocks are pretty harsh).

But keep things like the stock air box (upgrade the filter), fuel pump, intercooler and injectors as they don't need to change and will keep the car looking stock.

[DRD-00F]

There's not many things I love more then seeing a nur spec with racing numbers on it

[Mizzi]

HAHA thanks guys. love that photo, see thats what i am talking about, i cant see the problem about having your cake and eating it too. lol

Deffinatley going to start her up, thanks for all your oppinions guys.

Mizzi

[tangomatt]

It seems like you are going through what I experienced about two years ago when I bought my NUR. It is extremely hard to keep the car stock, beacuse there is so much untapped potential in the engine. With the right tuner, the NUR engine is capable of 300+ RWKw easily with minimal modifications - Power FC, Cam gears, decat, free flowing exhaust, strengthened turbo actuators.

However, to be honest, I wished I had saved the extra dough I forked out for the NUR and gone for a VSpec II. The N1 based engine is not that much better than the normal RB!

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

It seems like you are going through what I experienced about two years ago when I bought my NUR. It is extremely hard to keep the car stock, beacuse there is so much untapped potential in the engine. With the right tuner, the NUR engine is capable of 300+ RWKw easily with minimal modifications - Power FC, Cam gears, decat, free flowing exhaust, strengthened turbo actuators.

However, to be honest, I wished I had saved the extra dough I forked out for the NUR and gone for a VSpec II. The N1 based engine is not that much better than the normal RB!

How so tangomatt?

Yes a standard RB26 is friggin tuff! But...

Going N1, it should be even better yeah..?

[rtune]

How so tangomatt?

Yes a standard RB26 is friggin tuff! But...

Going N1, it should be even better yeah..?

The N1 block is stronger, but how often do you see people cracking the normal block?

seems to me like people break everything else before they crack the stock block. So an N1

is nice, but can be had - if you must have it - for less than the price a couple of other bolt

ons ..

And a buyer of an N1 block, well, he'll probably want to rebuild the engine with forged bits

anyway and thus leapfrog the balanced nur N1 pistons (which are still cast, not forged).

The N1 manifolds, N1 dumps and N1 turbos are better than stock manifolds (with the

on-purpose restriction) stock dumps and stock ceramics, but nothing interesting happens

until an upgrade is done to GT-SS or better, custom dumps, and so on ... and by then you've

got rid of all the bits that made the "N1" special. I think anyone given a choice would

rather have GT-SS than N1s.

Sorry I may have left out some other "N1" component, but you get the picture, I think?

one thing though if you want to enter some kind of rally or race class that requires stock

items then your N1 bits are going to be accepted.. and the 2.8 stroker with the fancy pistons

manifold, turbos and injectors is not qualified..

[eMsta]

let mizzi do what he wants - yes its a nur, but its his car. At the end of hte day, its up to him to enjoy it how he wants......

i cant wait to get my hands on a lotus exige!

[tangomatt]

Exactly what moneypit said!

[RBLUV]

DONT paint it!

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

The N1 block is stronger, but how often do you see people cracking the normal block?

seems to me like people break everything else before they crack the stock block. So an N1

is nice, but can be had - if you must have it - for less than the price a couple of other bolt

ons ..

And a buyer of an N1 block, well, he'll probably want to rebuild the engine with forged bits

anyway and thus leapfrog the balanced nur N1 pistons (which are still cast, not forged).

The N1 manifolds, N1 dumps and N1 turbos are better than stock manifolds (with the

on-purpose restriction) stock dumps and stock ceramics, but nothing interesting happens

until an upgrade is done to GT-SS or better, custom dumps, and so on ... and by then you've

got rid of all the bits that made the "N1" special. I think anyone given a choice would

rather have GT-SS than N1s.

Sorry I may have left out some other "N1" component, but you get the picture, I think?

one thing though if you want to enter some kind of rally or race class that requires stock

items then your N1 bits are going to be accepted.. and the 2.8 stroker with the fancy pistons

manifold, turbos and injectors is not qualified..

Yeah I see your point.

So if you are going to do a good track / street set up, you can save some cash just by buying the standard RB26, which is good enough as you will change most things with bolt ons anyway as you mentioned (Turbos, Dump Pipes and Exhaust Manifold etc...)

Thanks for that!

[jkotsa]

mizzi leave stock and just get a set of light weight rims for the track