![[[d a n n y]]](http://saufiles.s3.ap-southeast-2.amazonaws.com/profile/photo-thumb-12211.jpg)
Announcements
-
Similar Content
-
-
Latest Posts
-
Absolute Legend 🍻 After fighting with the scanned ones for the last 10 years this is a God send -
ATTAKD 356mm Brake Kit for R34 GTT or R33 GTST. Same brake kit as per here from JJ: https://justjap.com/products/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r34-99-02?currency=AUD Can confirm these will bolt directly to a R33 GTST with 12mm bolts OR to a R34 GTT (which is what I had) with the supplied bolts and the collets for the 14mm bolt holes in the R34, which are included. Also included is a set of rotors and hats, as well as 2x brake pad sets. 1) DBA XP (street, hills) 2) Forza FR6 (track) These are radial mounted and bolt directly to R33/R34. You will need extended brake lines to avoid them being full stretch on lock - this is common for all BBK's with the bolt point being in the center. In my case I welded another stud about 25mm lower than the OEM one and retained stock lines and fittings. You'll want a BM57 BMC to get the most out of these. I speak from experience. $1800 (neg for SAU people), located SE Suburbs Melbourne. -
Set of R33 GTST Calipers, Rotors and Pads. Calipers just taken off my car, rebuilt about ~30,000km ago. Rotors have done about ~20,000km total since new. Pads have plenty of meat. One set is DBA XP (road, hills) and the other set is Forza FR6 (track) Still working perfectly, not rusted, or seized or whatever the hell that greets used brakes. All clips, bolts, retainers, slide pins etc included. Also have OEM handbrake shoes I can throw in there if you're doing a conversion. $650 for the lot, SE Suburbs Melboune/VIC
-
I feel I have covid right now. I spent the time between Dec 21 and Jan 31 pretty much working 16 hour days on the car after it got back from paint. It turns out you generate a long list of "things to do" while the car is off the road but functional. After going to visit my mate for a "Couple of hour job" doing the brakes, 3 full days later I got home There was more on the list, (it got added to while sleeping on couches) but as everything on the list got enthusiastically crossed out as it happened, I've actually forgotten what they were. From memory there were bushes that had to be pressed in and out, washer jets to fit, etc. Some Gregging highlights: 1) The panel shop covered up my washer jets and painted over it. Good job, I think. We had to drill the new bonnet to fit new ones, which was understandably extremely scary. 2) My handbrake on the RHS is f**ked. After never adjusting it forever and learning on the fly, this one is still on my to-do list. It tightens when you pull the lever, but at about 10% of the tension that the passenger side does. Thoughts on what causes this would be great. 3) Pouring an entire liter of brake fluid over the reservoir because I forgot how to use my pressure bleeder. DON'T PUT FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR. IT WORKS BY USING PRESSURIZED AIR NOT PRESSURIZED FLUID. 471907729_9242915229093447_2708910336906717367_n.mp4 I can confirm the vents work great though. 4) Some of the bodykit fixings were f**king awful. I'm talking screwed in with what was at most a 2mm screw, and could flap the kit around by hand. Too many others to mention. They came in, went out of my brain forced by other stupid tiny things that came up and "While the car is on the damn hoist we can fix them" which was a mission in and of itself, because the car has skirts and is thus a pain to put on hoists. Because we had to buff the windscreen to get rid of the overspray, I also had to very gently wash the car. The "Run 3 wires" task was to re-attempt another gregging thing which was: The LS1 ECU in Australia does not have oil pressure wiring because the Commodores do not have a 'real' oil pressure switch The Corvettes in the USA do have oil pressure wiring because Corvettes have a real oil pressure switch. The ECU is the same physical ECU. So what I could do is pull the ECU apart, run 3 more pins and run it to the OEM oil pressure ECU, and the ECU should do this. What actually happened is that Greg did this with some not-so-proper-wiring/connectors to the ECU pins which 'might?' be okay put the car back together, and then the fuel pump wouldn't prime. So you can imagine I immediately undid all this work, put the ECU back into it's original configuration, thought I'd do some more research about what connectors the LS1 Ecu actually uses... and try again later. Except still no fuel pump prime. After a lot of sadness and checking/double checking it turns out it was the relay in the boot that controls the fuel pump. All I did was switch the trigger wires and it worked fine. I looked at the relay and it was covered in bog dust and was unknown years old. It's since been replaced and working fine. After I got the actual connectors, and the wires were ran I gathered my strength and repinned the ECU and Voila! I apologize for these MMS 472164532_8829400773820369_5410969472548349643_n.mp4 And even via ODB2 on the headunit, woo. Now Torque Pro can raise hell on track if it gets too low. It has a wonderful EMERGENCY_DISTRESS_SINGAL style warning if it goes below a certain threshhold. 472585876_9345134268844369_146554337148747327_n.mp4 TLDR: Car great. HFM kit works. So much cleaning. Buy my old stuff. Thanks.
-
By Murray_Calavera · Posted
That's a hell of a question right there and so broad that you could get 100 different answers and have them all be correct. To avoid me typing up a 2000 word thesis that doesn't answer your question, do you have specific things you are unsure of? Does the car currently handle in a way that you don't like? Or is it closer to, you think the car drives fine currently. But you'd like it to be better, but you don't know what that 'better' is or what that 'better' feels like?
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now