Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok today i was playing around with my father in laws new dynodynamics dyno, and hooked up the afr and boost sensors

did a power run, and noticed that at the top end the AFR's are around 14.4 : 1 ... this is too lean for 6000rpm full load ... so i tried a few things to see what the problem was as i think they should be more along the lines of 12.5 (its a s2 r33 gts-t with only a 3" catback as a mod)

i cleaned the afm... afr's still high....

so i did a fuel pressure test... and at the top end the fuel pressure was ~ 40psi .... is this right.. or should it be higher... because i have a feeling the pump may be on the way out and might not be delivering enough fuel!

any thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266322-high-afrs-dead-pump/
Share on other sites

lol @ friends comment.... pay me and you can use it :woot:

it made 141.7kw but i'm not concerned about power .... its the afr's im worried about... its just a stock standard Series 2 R33 gts-t with a 3" exhaust.. thats all.

i was asking about power because if it was over 180rwks or so i would say its time to upgrade fuel pump, but as its low power your stock fuel pump can easily handle it. might be playing up, or could be something else all together. im not sure what pressure it should be but ill be checking back on this topic to find out as im interested to know. good luck mate

i'm confused.. i hooked in a fuel pressure guage into the fuel line! ...... ran the car up on the dyno.. and at full boost/load at 6000rpm it was reading 40psi on the fuel pressure guage!

is that 40psi above manifold pressure or above atmo?

if manifold then thats right, if atmo then its too low

Ric - not married you douche, you know that, but easier way of explaining :P

Ash - plenty of juice is being provided on a platter for the fuel pump to take... and i think your right... 35-40 psi was base i thought. should increase with boost! i've got a new 040 sitting in my room just chillin out.. might throw that in.

Mat - yeah fuel filter was replaced 3 weeks ago when it was serviced... so would assume thats not an issue... yeah i was expecing around the 12 afr's on stardard tune ... but didnt think a std tune would be under 12! oh well..

got the rest of this week off work now... so will throw the 040 in tomorrow and dump it back on the dyno.. will keep everyone updated!

thanks guys

I had a similar issue, rich at idle and cruise, lean on boost. Turns out that the vacuum reference diaphram on the regulator had been destroyed, therefore keeping the fuel at base pressure and not following manifold pressure.

i'm confused.. i hooked in a fuel pressure guage into the fuel line! ...... ran the car up on the dyno.. and at full boost/load at 6000rpm it was reading 40psi on the fuel pressure guage!

yer thats too low. should be 42psi (i think) base pressure then another psi for every psi of boost. so at 10psi fuel pressure should be 52psi.

I had a similar issue, rich at idle and cruise, lean on boost. Turns out that the vacuum reference diaphram on the regulator had been destroyed, therefore keeping the fuel at base pressure and not following manifold pressure.

had the same thing when my reg died, on boost it leaned out to the point where it simply couldnt fire, just spluttered.

with the stock ecu the AFR's usually drop into the 10s with higher than standard boost

daz you need to re wire the fuel pump wires all new ones do a search

Hey, thanks, have you had similar problems before? and that solved the problem?

im going to replace the fuel filter and getting a bosch fuel pump instead and earth it properly to see if it rectifies it

It was the Fuel pump that was causing the high afr's

put in a new bosch pump, and it fixed the issue!

here's the results for anyone interested

med_gallery_17884_2450_182999.jpg

Thats good that the new pump solved the issue.

This is my graph, , notice the sudden spike in afr's in the lower graph.

post-9392-1240494554_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...