Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Gents,

I am new to the forum.

I have a R33 GTST '94 done about 112K. I gave my car for Serive yesterday and was told to change the timing belt.

Does any1 know how many k's can the above model skyline do before it becomes a must to change it?

Even though i have requested for it to be changed, I thought maybe it could be helpfull to have an understanding for me and for others in the forum

Thanks

Harry

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266379-r33-timing-belt/
Share on other sites

hi there,

Working in an auto parts store as well working side jobsas well as on my own vehicle's i never play the how many miles game. Rather better safe than sorry. good luck,

~skott

so your telling me your gonna change the Timing belt (without any idea or planning/scedule) every 20,000km ....replace just to be safe then sorry?

:P

Hi Gents,

I am new to the forum.

I have a R33 GTST '94 done about 112K. I gave my car for Serive yesterday and was told to change the timing belt.

Does any1 know how many k's can the above model skyline do before it becomes a must to change it?

Even though i have requested for it to be changed, I thought maybe it could be helpfull to have an understanding for me and for others in the forum

Thanks

Harry

it all depends... sometimes rubbers can last longer than others, depending on the ingredients made.

but average recommendations are usually 100,000km.

so if your car hasnt had it done before, its most likely due.

Timing chains usually last a fair bit longer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266379-r33-timing-belt/#findComment-4547296
Share on other sites

I bought a s1 r33 with 127000kays on the clock and I suspected the timing belt had never been changed, so i did it + water pump just to be on the safe side.

however now i'm regretting not doing the idler/tensioner pulleys at the same time... apparently if they go it's just as bad! ??

Edited by dnbosiris
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266379-r33-timing-belt/#findComment-4550092
Share on other sites

if it looks cracked, or teeth missing chips replace

usually they say every 90,000 to 100,000kms

if u dont and it snaps you WILL need new pistons and valves as the 2 meet at a very fast pace

bent valves can also equal cracked valve guides, distorted valve seats, the dust from the chunks taken out of the piston may end up getting picked up in a main bearing journal

alot of machining work and labour hours/costs involved

unless u get lucky and the bent valves do minimal damage, but still $30 + per valve isnt cheap at 24

Edited by Gerg_R31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266379-r33-timing-belt/#findComment-4550113
Share on other sites

I bought a s1 r33 with 127000kays on the clock and I suspected the timing belt had never been changed, so i did it + water pump just to be on the safe side.

however now i'm regretting not doing the idler/tensioner pulleys at the same time... apparently if they go it's just as bad! ??

yes i forgot to mention about that one

it is also recommended to replace the idle tensioner puller with the timing belt.. because they are also very old.

well it depends...sometimes its not as bad.....it causes anoyying rattles and squeeks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266379-r33-timing-belt/#findComment-4550222
Share on other sites

anyone know what the factory timing settings are for the RB25? am changing my timing belt and having troubles

ok RB25DET timing is as follows:

15 degrees +/- 1 Degrees, 650 +/- 50rpm

ive got a simplified Workshop manual of the R33 Rb25det aroudn 20mgb which shows you how to test it if you need

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266379-r33-timing-belt/#findComment-4566372
Share on other sites

so your telling me your gonna change the Timing belt (without any idea or planning/scedule) every 20,000km ....replace just to be safe then sorry?

:woot:

:) should have clarified. i usually do timing on my cars around 60,000 reason: i run the piss out of them. highway runs country side twistie's and if i ever get a chance tracks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266379-r33-timing-belt/#findComment-4567413
Share on other sites

:P should have clarified. i usually do timing on my cars around 60,000 reason: i run the piss out of them. highway runs country side twistie's and if i ever get a chance tracks.

country runs..... well id say definately get them replaced more often to avoid havoc....

as steve irwin said "if ya break down ere........ its ALL OVA!" :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266379-r33-timing-belt/#findComment-4568205
Share on other sites

The Timing Belt should have been changed when the car gets to 100,000km's.

Usually they are changed just before the 80,000km's mark.

Best to change it if you don't know if it has been done or not and since you got to 112,000km's, it be a good time to change it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266379-r33-timing-belt/#findComment-4568598
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's hope that's not a copy pump either. There were so many copies of them back in the day.
    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
×
×
  • Create New...