Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Waaay back in the day there was a Daihatsu Mira getting around here, stock looking, white with a small bonnet scoop for a top mount cooler, sporting a turbo'd motor. It made 130fwkw, and had awesome power to weight ratio. Fittingly, the plates were GRNADE lol.

I'm quite a fan of the thought of a Volvo or Daihatsu hatch with some performance behind it, and well said about the Volvo driver assumption, anyone remember that epic fail Volvo ad campaign about 'bloody Volvo drivers'?

  • Replies 200
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

I think a good 50% of people on here miss the point of a sleeper. An Evo, chaser, R31 (nowadays) etc, isnt a sleeper. Anything imported Q45 etc is going to be assumed by anyone with half a brain about cars to have had something done to it, at the very least been driven by a car fan. Datsuns are modded a lot too, so no surprises there. Tureno? you're joking right?? has anyone ever pulled up next to one and thought it was just an old banger?

Volvo is a good start, and the 240/740's etc are fantastic. Volvo's are invisible to cops. I use to drive a 740 and once went past a cop with a gun doing 60kmph in a 40 zone and didnt get pulled over. It wasnt a busy road either. It you want to be different. Get a late model 850 AWD wagon and put 'R' goodies in it. The engines are designed to be turbo'd (or you could just get the R/T5 engine which already has one on it) and there's a lot of european aftermarket stuff out there for them.

if you want something that's straight speed, why not go completely left field? What about a Daewoo Lanos, Ford Festiva, Kia etc? I spose the drive train would need a hell of a lot of work to take any amount of stress but you have to admit, no one would see it coming.

Volvo with an 8 has been done before many times...heavy car.

A Volvo 240 is in the 1300kg range (which puts it in GTS-t territory, or older GT-R turf) and the engine bay will easily accomodate a boosted Holden 308.

Most of the people here have opted for drag sleds, but Tassie has some of the nicest corners in Australia. I'd consider a lighter corner carver that blows away bogans driving outside town. There's one thing to leave some Dunnydore driver eating your dust off the line, but there's something else to have that driver eating trees because they've fallen off a country road trying to keep up with you in the bends.

I'd contemplate something like a Mitsubishi Galant VR4. 2.5L twin turbo AWD, but because they're so uncommon chances are bogans won't know what it is. Unlike the Liberty RS Turbo (or B4 if you can afford it) it doesn't have a giant bonnet scoop to give the game away. Just paint the FMIC black.

Alternatively, something like an MX-5 with a 13B turbo conversion. Everyone assumes your hairdresser's car is slow, but it'll haul arse in a straight line and spank people through the bends.

1988 JE Holden Camira wagon. C20XE conversion (Manual Calibra engine), Calibra brakes, weight reduction (right on 1000kg with a small amount of fuel in it). Has 96fw kw at the moment N/A, but turbo conversion is in the works. I sold it to my brother last week... it's faster than my stock S2 Stagea.

I have a small sleeper at the moment...

Its a 1996 Mitsubishi Lancer Ce Coupe with a Evo 5 or 6? engine and gearbox in it....

It has a small style lukey muffer at the rear (std style tip)

Front mount (Black painted) is small and it sits behind the std front bar easily..

It looks very standard and only has 15" rims...

Its a load of fun in the dry except for in the WET! then its scary and no fun at all..

The look you get from a v8 owner when you not only keep up with him but let him here the external gate going off as you start to pull away!

Have been giving this some more thought (and I can't believe this thread is still going).

I was thinking a 1998 Lancer 4 door GLi (I hate them with a passion by the way) with the 1.8 litre 4G93 twin cam.

Then add on one of these babies: http://www.raptorsc.com.au/kits.php?id=24 for a nice 134 kW ATW add an intercooler for safety, or even a water to air intercooler off a subaru liberty so its kept under the bonnet.

Plus extractors and a quiet but free flowing exhaust system, should give a nice multiplyer on top of the supercharger.

According to the bumf the supercharger kit alone makes for a 13 second car.

That would be amusing.

my mate has a 1jz inside a toyota crown, i dunno much about it. but it sure as hell is a sleeper.

or you could just a GTiR the look on people's face the next set of lights is always priceless

A GTiR is not a sleeper.

I think people are missing the point with the idea of getting something that people dont know about (ie, Q45, Aristo, obscure imports etc) therefore they'll think its slow. Thats not the way to do it. You'll still attract cop attention, anyone who knows anything is going to see you coming a mile off. unless you're trying to trick mum's in Patrols etc. If they dont know what it is, then they will be open to expect anything. you'll stick out too much.

The key is, is to make a sleeper out of something people *think* they know about. Ie, people think Daihatsu's/Cameira (grreat suggestion!)/Volvo's are slow etc. thats where you'll get your surprise and safety from cops and would be thief's.

Also, surprised i didnt think of it. But a really good alternative to the V8 Volvo, is getting either a 960 or S90 which is the mid 90's large RWD sedan. Stock, its a 3l DOCH inline 6cyc . over-engineered like all volvos are to take a lot more than they handle. A lot of people in Sweden are putting twin turbo kits on it and are getting good results. Knowledge on how to etc, is all online and equipment available from Europe. its a common thing overseas but i've never heard of a modded one in australia getting about.

^rice that bitch out and stick it to all those high and mighty skyline owners that ever laughed at a lancer

As I said I can't stand base model lancers.

But you could nearly go the anti-sleeper with this one. Because all lancers have crappy bodykits and stickers for performance kit they don't have if it had them people would assume it didn't so when it did it would be a sleeper. Kinda.

Or you could not.

  • 4 weeks later...
It'd seem a bit silly to try and stuff a big motor into a Kei car though.

Datsun 1200 with CA18DET?

Personally I'd choose a 13B, maybe with a GT35/40, water injection to get away with not needing an intercooler, keep the standard wheels, a sunvisor and rear venitian for that old school look and a dummy exhaust tip to finish it off....

Heres one we prepared earlier:

n580804146_253348_2497.jpg

DSC04431.jpg

DSC06964.JPG

The car has run 12.2 at 125mph in full street trim (including 175 wide 13-inch tyres) and has run 11.4/121mph on slicks (but still full exhaust/pump fuel etc)

Just bought a R31 pintara station wagon.

Its dented to sh*ttery.

Flakey paint.

Grass stains are up around the doors where the grass was left to grow.

Engine has a blown head gasket but it drives.

1 year rego which is nice though.

Interior is complete and the whole driveline is surprisingly immaculate, no rust that I can see - plus its a one owner car.

$400!!!

Bargain.

The old 400 horsepower 351 stroker that used to belong in my Falcon will be getting a new home very shortly - or a SR20DET will fit in nicely, or a cheap RB25/30. Or I'll fix it and clean it up and make a profit :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
×
×
  • Create New...