Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't they get complied for the Aus market on import? Like, things added to them to meet Australian standards? So do they even have the same seat belts on Japan or wherever as they do here, or as they changed as well? Cause that might explain why some are 2+2 and others are 5.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26644-r33-4seats-or-5/#findComment-563493
Share on other sites

the guys with 2+2s, what year are your 33s?

mine only has 4 seat belts. i think they are really only supposed to be 4 seat cars as the middle in the back seat isnt really a seat more a divider for both sides. Actually I'm not 100% sure check the underneath for thread holes etc..

mine is a 93

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26644-r33-4seats-or-5/#findComment-563629
Share on other sites

Man I always though that all Skylines R33 is only 4 seater?!?!

Didn't know some of you guys have 3 seat belts at the back!

I only got 2 seat belts and it is a 94 model. That's weird. So you can fit another seat belt in the middle if you want to??

Dude that's pretty cool, more girls at the back hehe :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26644-r33-4seats-or-5/#findComment-564490
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...