Jump to content
SAU Community

New Gearbox Installed R32 Gtr...

Ronin 09
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

Just had a new brand spanker gearbox installed last week, a late model R33 Pull type, into my early R32 GTR.

Was apparently easy as pie to swap the new box from pull, back to push.

Also at the time had the following done:

1. check & reseal transfer case, and attessa actuator, new transfer fluid (Motul synth ATF)

2. rebuilt tailshaft, rebuilt centre bearing and new CV at the rear, rebalance

3. rebuilt driveshaft from transfer case to front diff (2 joints)

4. new diff oil (Motul Gear Competition 75W140)

5. Castrol Syntrax 75W90 in the gearbox, as run-in for 500kms, then switching to Motul Gear 300 75W90

My question is this - when I first got the car, the rear diff would be clunky when you did low-speed high-lock driving - eg carparks.

I have not recently noticed this as much. Note that I have always had synth fluids in the gears and diffs and are changed regularly (less than 10,000kms).

Now that all the drivetrain is rebuilt or new, it seems to be clunky alot more. Is this a "good thing" in that it is all now tight? I'm guessing so.

The new box feels nice, but is still notchy. I guess that's what you get with an old agricultural box like these!

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266456-new-gearbox-installed-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
Deano45 Rising Star

Deano45

Posted
Posted
Just had a new brand spanker gearbox installed last week, a late model R33 Pull type, into my early R32 GTR.

Was apparently easy as pie to swap the new box from pull, back to push.

Does the push type gear bolt straight in to the 33 Gear Box?

The reason that I ask is that I currently have the OS Giken pull to push converter in my 33 GTR as I used to have a OS Giken twin plate, I am looking at removing this and buying the 32 GTR push type components to install into my box to work with my new NPC twin plate that I am getting.

any help appreciated.

skylinekid Proficient

skylinekid

Posted
Posted

it may feel a lil bit notchy because ur clutch isnt adjusted properly i had the same thing with my gtst.... im unsure if gtr have adjustable pushrods from the clutch pedal but it may need just a lil extra travel added to the pedal cuz sumtimes u may be lazy and not push the pedal the whole way down.... just a suggestion see how it goes etc

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
Does the push type gear bolt straight in to the 33 Gear Box?

The reason that I ask is that I currently have the OS Giken pull to push converter in my 33 GTR as I used to have a OS Giken twin plate, I am looking at removing this and buying the 32 GTR push type components to install into my box to work with my new NPC twin plate that I am getting.

any help appreciated.

IIRC the push or pull clutch is determined by the bellhousing, and you can swap bellhousings between gearboxes. Push is a backwards step and can be unreliable with a strong pressure plate spring - i think the pivot can break. You should be able to find this with searching, my memory is shot.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
5. Castrol Syntrax 75W90 in the gearbox, as run-in for 500kms, then switching to Motul Gear 300 75W90

<snip>

I have not recently noticed this as much. Note that I have always had synth fluids in the gears and diffs and are changed regularly (less than 10,000kms).

I think you're going OTT with all this gear oil changing. The factory drain interval for 32 GTR is 100,000 on mineral oil. Synth should last three times that..... Syntrax is quality stuff.....

You could get your used oil analysed if you want some scientific corroboration of the above. Would cost less than a gearbox fill.

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I think you're going OTT with all this gear oil changing. The factory drain interval for 32 GTR is 100,000 on mineral oil. Synth should last three times that..... Syntrax is quality stuff.....

You could get your used oil analysed if you want some scientific corroboration of the above. Would cost less than a gearbox fill.

yep, you're probably right, Adam.

it's more just to make sure there is no machining swarf etc left in the new box

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Milkmun
      S15 Spec R

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R33 fuel setup

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...