Help! Belt Slippage

[rtune]

Tuner has struck a problem with my p/s and a/c belts, they slip (burn) on the dyno above 6k.

Problem started with a Ross balancer which replaced a cracked stock balancer.

We're not talking more than 8k here, so I'm confused. Belts have been inspected for tightness

and possible grease and all that.

Our option now is to get a 2nd hand stock balancer and try that, only to find the same

issue?, or to give me back the car with a 6k rev limit while ross get some under-drive pulleys.

What could be the cause of this? the mods make a good deal more poke but not 400kw territory

so why would the ross balancer slip them? it is same size as stock.. hence the concern

stock might do it too ..

any ideas? what are we missing?

thanks.

[R31Nismoid]

What brand belts?

So i take it your tighten them up and they slip again shortly after?

Are the pulleys all inline perfectly?

[NZM.031]

real men dont need p/s or a/c.. remove the belts.. thats what steve mcqueen would do.

[rtune]

What brand belts?

So i take it your tighten them up and they slip again shortly after?

Are the pulleys all inline perfectly?

I'm not sure if they tried new ones, and if they did I'm sure they tried nissan but

the problem first showed up with the ones that were one it - which were fine

with the stock balancer ..

Ross was called and they said "yeah that happens", but I don't know why it

would if nothing is getting over-driven or over-revved. They take a week to get

under-driven pulleys to me.

the motor has a lot more get up and go now and the 2wd mainline dyno ramp-rate had to be

turned up as the rear tires were heating up too much .. so obviously that meant revs climbing

faster than previous runs, before the bolt-ons.

Yeah i can drive without a/c -- but not p/s and it was slipping both with the ross balancer

over 6000.

I asked to source a 2nd hand stock balancer but the concern is hours of R&R work to find

it still happens.. hence my question here.

but I've done a bunch of searching and I don't see a similar problem posted, apart from

cold-start squeals, so maybe this is a Ross balancer issue?

[femno]

I have a Ross balancer, no dramas at all.

Check A/C and P/S pump and idler bearings...I had my alt rebuilt and it caused a squeal...they used some wrong bearings that added load to the shaft, and therefore the belt couldnt cope. Got them to do it again then it was fine.

I dont see why the A/C would even squeal...it has absolutely NO load on that belt, unless its on because your tuner is getting hot inside the car while tuning lol. It must be something silly.

[grigor]

Something very wrong here.

There's no load on the power steer pump until you turn the wheel. On the dyno, it will merely circulate the oil.

Same for the aircon, unless your car gets dyno'd with the aircon on.

[R31Nismoid]

You didnt answer all the questions... Well... any of them

[rtune]

to answer specifically

belts are original nissan and have not been changed are good but not great condition.

tightness and alignment was checked.

was told they were burning on dyno, slipping too much

and they couldn't, yet, solve it.

whether it was just ps or ps and ac (if on) I don't know..

that's all I know in addition to what I already described..

[rtune]

talked to them again and got a bit more specific of a picture:

the ross damper runs three belts, the inner one runs fine (to the alternator)

however the two outer ones, despite driving no load, starting jumping at 6500+ rpm

they claim those 2 belts are properly tensioned, and aligned. Since they were the original

belts and the power steering and a/c haven't been moved, and the ross is supposed to be the

same diameter as the stock balancer, why would they now be freaking out..

I often seem to strike problems with my car in workshops that when described, don't make

sense to anyone else

anyway they're gonna finish the tune then play more with belts tomorrow, so I'll post if a solution

is found. I'm glad femno says he had no issue with the Ross I can raise that with them.