Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have tried searching on this and cannot get any matches..

I am building a RB30 with RB26 head and 4WD sump.. I know I need to mod the oil pickup pipe to suit but was after some advice on this.. Which is the easier pickup pipe to start the mod with? The RB26 one or the RB30 one? When fitted to their associated block are they both picking up oil from the same point in space? If so then I guess the RB30 is easier to Mod as it shoul donly need extending in height to cater for the adapter plate?

Otherwise I figure I need to extend it in length so it's in the correct point in the sump well and then increase the depth of it by the thickness of the sump adapter? Is that about the size of it?

Thank you

Lee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266814-oil-pickup-modification-rb30rb26/
Share on other sites

Lee,

Neither. It's not a "simple fab job" that's for sure, I had a customer from England point me to your thread on the UK forum. You need to get a block, fit the plate, fit a sump with the bottom removed and fabricate a pickup that will fit in the space left. You will need at least one very tight radius mandrel bend coming from the flange and still have a way to get a bolt under it to be able to mount the pickup to the block and be able to tighten the bolt. Would probably be easy to do if you didn't want to retain the same ID on the pickup pipe but that's not a good option.

Just as an indication, it takes longer to make our pickup than it does to machine the plate and sort and pack the fasteners.

Cheers,

Greg

P.S. Are you the Lee from the UK that was emailing me a while back asking for the CAD file for our crank collars?

lol im guessing you got a chuckle from that email? I would think it isnt polite to ask for someone elses CAD drawings. Especially of something they machine and sell.

Lee you could just buy one from say....proengines perhaps? Oil pickups are finicky!

Edited by r33_racer

Hey guys'

Yes I am the same guy.. I wasn't actually intending to sell them at the time and as I pointed out in my ad I can only get very few done.

In life you don't ask.. you don't get.

How much is an oil pickup then? I am going to run a std 4wd sump with additional baffling.

Cheers

Lee

Lee, we don't sell the pickups as a separate part, only as part of the full kit. We might do them in the future but currently have trouble keeping enough done to go with the kits. For a one of job it's probably simpler to run an external pickup.

Hi guys'

External is another option I was considering.. When I have it at that stage I will look a little closer.

I was planning to make a jig off my RB26 block and oil pickup to get the pickup end in the correct position and then create the necessary pipe work between that to reach the RB30 block. if I run into problems I will explore the external route..

I like a challenge and I can hopefully stand back proud at the end of the day knowing I did it myself. Assuming it doesn't go bang off course! Shouldn't really joke!

Lee

Lee have a read of this thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...la-t259282.html

You'll find the major problem is getting the pipe to come out of the block at a low enough angle so it doesnt hit the axle but still being able to get a nut/bolt on it

i did it with an 8mm plate and it was a bitch. took me a long time.

I chopped up 2x rb30 pickups and also one that came with a trust extended sump.

i had to use an oxy set to tweak it a little and it was still a nightmare

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...