Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so on my 2am trip home from work i was wondering why at around 5k rpm the car starts to lose power and why 'pop's are coming from the exhaust..

pondering away trying to keep myself awake at the wheel i came to the (guessed) conclusion that the reason may come down to the factory boost cut..

my reason for thinking this is happening at around that rpm is because of the larger volume of air needing to be pushed through due to fmic and the fact that my exhaust is 3 1/2" or 4.. not 100% sure, but shes a big bugger from the turbo-back..

how off the mark am i?

if it is this, how can it be rectified?

ps, S1 R33 gtst if it helps..

cheers, mac

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266815-boost-cut/
Share on other sites

so on my 2am trip home from work i was wondering why at around 5k rpm the car starts to lose power and why 'pop's are coming from the exhaust..

car stops accelerating suddenly followed by a few loud pops and bangs from the exhaust and then continues accelerating normaly from ~5500-7000?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266815-boost-cut/#findComment-4553616
Share on other sites

car stops accelerating suddenly followed by a few loud pops and bangs from the exhaust and then continues accelerating normaly from ~5500-7000?

neg. no big bangs or anything, just a heap of little pops and no power.. thus why i asked if it was boost cut because its like engine is being starved of air.. i was told by a somewhat informative source that it was boost cut and that it can only really be fixed with an a/m ecu+tune.. will avcr or equivellent be sufficient or should i be looking into a haltec or similar?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266815-boost-cut/#findComment-4554347
Share on other sites

neg. no big bangs or anything, just a heap of little pops and no power.. thus why i asked if it was boost cut because its like engine is being starved of air.. i was told by a somewhat informative source that it was boost cut and that it can only really be fixed with an a/m ecu+tune.. will avcr or equivellent be sufficient or should i be looking into a haltec or similar?

I had a similar problem, it's all gone now though after installing a couple of mods and tuning it on Apexi's Power FC

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266815-boost-cut/#findComment-4554368
Share on other sites

I got the same problem at 5000rpm my car pops & stops gainning power then 6000rpm it jumps back in to power till redline. I assumed it was my coilpacks, But I just dont have the spare $600 at the momment, incase thats not my problem. I have been doing some research of bikirom daughter ecu board for the R34 which is $550 fitted with the same capabilitys as a power fc. So im going to try that first then replace the coils.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266815-boost-cut/#findComment-4555063
Share on other sites

neg. no big bangs or anything, just a heap of little pops and no power.. thus why i asked if it was boost cut because its like engine is being starved of air.. i was told by a somewhat informative source that it was boost cut and that it can only really be fixed with an a/m ecu+tune.. will avcr or equivellent be sufficient or should i be looking into a haltec or similar?

spark breaking down, tape up or silicone your coils and buy some new plugs and gap them down

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266815-boost-cut/#findComment-4555101
Share on other sites

I got the same problem at 5000rpm my car pops & stops gainning power then 6000rpm it jumps back in to power till redline. I assumed it was my coilpacks, But I just dont have the spare $600 at the momment, incase thats not my problem. I have been doing some research of bikirom daughter ecu board for the R34 which is $550 fitted with the same capabilitys as a power fc. So im going to try that first then replace the coils.

Turn the boost down, mine used to do that on the stock ECU at anything over 12psi but never did it at 11psi or less.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266815-boost-cut/#findComment-4555452
Share on other sites

i got the same problem, and it just started few nights ago out of no where

i put silicone on the coilpacks (hi temp Loctite one) but its still there - between 4500 and 5500 after that its fine

my NGk iridiums r about 60,000kms old so im putting new copper ones in tomorow gapped to 0.8mm and giv it ago, hopefuly its just my plugs that need replacing and not the coil packs

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266815-boost-cut/#findComment-4555959
Share on other sites

Its impossible to tell over the net, theres a few common things that can cause the exact thing you're talking about. But from personal experience, my bro had a r33 gtst (basically stock) and it behaved like what you are talking about.

We started with the basics. new plugs, regapped then to .7mm, new fuel filter, new fuel pump, new coil pack harness (had a spare) etc...

Still had the problem, it would splutter and pop from about 4800rpm through to redline.

Bought a powerfc, BANG fixed. Never had another problem. Instant impovement.

Best mod on the car from date was the FC.

My 2 cents

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266815-boost-cut/#findComment-4555981
Share on other sites

Its impossible to tell over the net, theres a few common things that can cause the exact thing you're talking about. But from personal experience, my bro had a r33 gtst (basically stock) and it behaved like what you are talking about.

We started with the basics. new plugs, regapped then to .7mm, new fuel filter, new fuel pump, new coil pack harness (had a spare) etc...

Still had the problem, it would splutter and pop from about 4800rpm through to redline.

Bought a powerfc, BANG fixed. Never had another problem. Instant impovement.

Best mod on the car from date was the FC.

My 2 cents

Power FC's FTW. But if u dont have 1k laying in ya wallet its good to get ya standard ecu running 100%.

I have the exact same problem wif a series 2 25 in a cef. I've regaped plugs to .8mm, taped up all coil packs, made sure i had fuel. And it still breaks down at 4-5k making no power and wont rev any further. I'm using a RB20 actuator and not seeing more then 7psi. The only freakn thing i can think off is maybe my AFM is dieing slowly so i'm gonna try n borrow a mates 2moz and hopfully that helps. btw do RB25 afms fail often?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266815-boost-cut/#findComment-4555992
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...