Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmm i might try that tomorrow then.

there is ignition timing and additional boost on the nismo - actually not sure about the boost increase.

well i know the arx MUST be tune differently as from factory it runs a few psi extra.. and who knows if nissan advanced abit of timing to compensate for the extra ass...

Getting back to informeter and modifying the signals from these 2 pots, when I made changes to increase opening from 80% to 90%, the informeter would read LESS than 80% (closer to 70% actually) and then the ECU would back off the fuel (cause it thinks I don't have the throttle opened as much as I do) so I would see the injector pulse width drop down (meantime I'm going faster) & of course the knock sensor would put an end to it pinch.gif I'm hoping for better results at the lower end of the spectrum though. There's more fuel at launch and that is where we want the benefit anyway soooo.... we'll wait & see.

seeing as i've got a wideband in maybe me n scott will also figure this one out. but im starting to think it may have something to do with the fuel map as Cihan cant tune the car under 3000rpm when in third, as if he floors it it will kick down to first and jump off the dyno..

so it could also be a possbility that the low end fuel map is muck, as mine does strange things according to the wideband, but once it gets to 3000rpm, ratio sits at about 12v and everything hammers

maybe we could talk Ian into sticking his spare motor on an engine dyno to see if Gihan can tune the emanage to suit! :P

Not that it would really concern Ian or I....but we do like to help when we can.

maybe we could talk Ian into sticking his spare motor on an engine dyno to see if Gihan can tune the emanage to suit! :P

Not that it would really concern Ian or I....but we do like to help when we can.

I think if the transmission has anything to do with it, just an engine dyno wouldnt work i dont think.. Cihan needs to do a track coughroadcough tune from standing still, to full ball in first. Maybe we can get around it with just that(i like to dream)

maybe we could talk Ian into sticking his spare motor on an engine dyno to see if Gihan can tune the emanage to suit! :P

Not that it would really concern Ian or I....but we do like to help when we can.

Now that's a generous offer :thanks: guys.

Edited by Commsman

just food for lhought guys

the voltage range on most tps's is 0-5V

when you hook up an ecutalk display you can configure it to show tps volts or %

but for the % to show correctly you have to calibrate it as WOT isn't actually the max range of the sensor

is there any way to calibrate your display thingos?

and has anyone run the throttle out of the car and seen how far the butterfly is open at 86%?

yeah we already know its a range calibration on the informeter, i mentioned that one page back. at 86% its WOT

thats not the problem. being BTW the ECU retards the throttle to limit torque, we want it back. at almost any cost :P

I reset the Voltage range for the throttle this morning on the the informeter and now see throttle in the 40% bracket when stalling. It was a very brief stall and not completed so this may be a little higher in reality.

I will try to get a proper number later today.

I reset the Voltage range for the throttle this morning on the the informeter and now see throttle in the 40% bracket when stalling. It was a very brief stall and not completed so this may be a little higher in reality.

I will try to get a proper number later today.

by doing the Throttle position reset or?

is there a way to do it in the informeter??

just food for lhought guys

the voltage range on most tps's is 0-5V

when you hook up an ecutalk display you can configure it to show tps volts or %

but for the % to show correctly you have to calibrate it as WOT isn't actually the max range of the sensor

is there any way to calibrate your display thingos?

and has anyone run the throttle out of the car and seen how far the butterfly is open at 86%?

VQ's have twin TPS signals, 0-5v and 5-0v.

The 36% at stall opening is the big issue, not the 86% once it opens.

Perhaps the issue at stall is just an input to the ecu from the brake. Maybe the nismo has this turned off but for those of us without "awesome", we could just cut the wire....

my thought exactly. i said it earlier but im not too confident in exactly which wire that is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean he could post them to imgur or the like and create a link. But yeah, spam bots absolutely will post pictures in their first posts.
    • Ah ok, reason I asked was for the sake of not having to upgrade everything if the turbo couldn't be capped.
    • pffft! My alignments are starting to take 3-4 weeks each. Bugger overnight - that would be a dream! Overnight is when I leave it on stands with the rear suspension in pieces, hoping I can remember where I was at when I come back to it. I have to set the car up on a level surface so I can get decent camber measurements, then try to set the RUCAs to the right length to get that right. Then I have to put the car somewhere else where I have enough room to set up the bumpsteer gauge (laser, paper, mirror), so I can dial out that. Then I need to go measure camber again because changing the tension arm length affects that also. Then I need to measure toe, and I can't do that to my own satisfaction at home, so I have to put it on an actual aligner. Then I have to go back and fix the camber again, and if that took more than a half a turn, decide if I want to set up the bumpsteer measurements again. I previously had the bumpsteer almost completely banished and then I started changing things again! And that's only the rear end. Not even gotten to talking about the front yet. And this has been going on in the context of me discovering a seized bolt in the LHR FUCA bush at the upright, hence needing total disassembly to replace that bush and the others that were not far away from the same outcome, replacing sphericals in the front end and making a mistake that resulted in needing to do it again, which is only half done right now. It's a selfmade nightmare. Only have self to blame, etc etc. But regardless, I am so complelely unable to utilise the services of a normal wheel aligner that I have no choice. I haven't found a shop in my city that does "race" alignments - and by that I don't mean I want my car to be set up for racing, but the set of adjustments that I have available and that need to be used to do the alignment are the same as you'd find on a race car. I haven't looked everywhere, but there doesn't appear to be the equivalent of the motorsport focused shops that are present in Sydney and Melbourne. And such an alignment would cost $300, and you only want to do it once in a while, and you don't want to find out that you have to replace bushes and bearings and such while you are spending that $300 so you have to come back and spend it again a week later. So I stay living in my self made nightmare for the moment.  
    • Well, yeah, obviously. But then you have a turbo with 270kW "design", meaning it will have the higher boost threshold and lag of a bigger turbo, but only doing the work of a smaller turbo. That's the suck. That's actually exactly where I am right now, because my stocker exploded and I got Tao to do a highflow for me. I got a low pressure actuator on it and don't push it past ~10 psi or so, where the stocker was being run at ~12 psi. it makes a little more power than the stocker did, but it lags like a bitch. But, if I run any more boost it starts to ping and the ECU goes into panic mode, which cuts all the fun, so it clearly needs to be tuned. But, until such time as I (which is not I, it's my bro-in-law) can actually get the dyno working again, and get some injectors, and do all the swap over of those and the R35 AFM, I can't attempt to use the turbo the way it really deserves to. So what I have now is something that drives worse than what it did before it filled the cat with little pieces of turbine. I will tune it eventually, and probably only push it up to ~250-270 rwkW, which is pretty close to the max for that highflow anyway. I would imagine that by getting the tune right, and with newer betterrer injectors, we can probably make the boost come on a little earlier than it does now.** And if I do not think that the top end reward is worth the low end sacrifice, I will sell it off and convert to a G30, because the smaller ones of those come on boost very nicely on a 25 and make more power than I realistically need or want. The only reason I didn't do it at the time the turbo blew up is that I wasn't ready to sink a lot of money into an Artec manifold, reverse rotation turbo, the AFM and injector upgrade that would have been immediately compulsory, and the dyno was being problematic.*** It was easier and faster to just put the highflow on. And then, as I mentioned in an earlier post, even that is not "easy", because Tao's highflows use a shorter core than the Hitachi, so the compressor housing moves backwards in the bay, necessitating that all of the pipework had to get modded. ** And maybe just maybe, check the valve clearances and put new shims through, because I have recently seen firsthand on another motor that sloppy clearances on the shims can cost a lot of effective timing and lift and really slow an engine down. 3S-GTE in a Caldina got new shims, closing the clearances from just above the max to right down near the minimum, and it is a massively different car to drive. On boost the better part of 1000 rpm earlier!
    • ooooooh so this is where they get posted  Was at a wedding that day anyway, but the next one I will be there for SURE.
×
×
  • Create New...