Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmmmm,, So after almost a year away from stags.... I have bought a M35 from auction through j-spec.

Which brings me here.

To my first big set of confusion about the m35 and its ecu.

After reading this entire thread, post for post, I still have NFI.

Can someone clarify my understanding? I understand that our M35's stock come with some throttle control bullshit. ie- 1st gear- 30% 2nd gear- 40% (not sure about exacts) Now, in order to remove that i will have to cut the wire or put a switch in thats connected to the pin55 on the ecu, correct?

Now if i want to tune my car, Emanage ultimate can do what exactly? And what could also having a V manage further accomplish? I now live in Western Australia if that changes shit.

Thankyou

Scott

Cutting the wire will help with the throttle response, taking off and coming out of corners, but it will throw an engine light if you don't connect it back up every few days. Hence the switch.

The Emanage Ultimate is the easiest option for tuning the M35 but you will need to find a tuner willing to work with it. A lot of them have no idea when it comes to the emanage so even if you find one to tune it there will be a steep learning curve you will have to pay for.

The Emanage Ultimate is the cheapest option for tuning the M35 but you will need to find a tuner willing to work with it. A lot of them have no idea when it comes to the emanage so even if you find one to tune it there will be a steep learning curve you will have to pay for.

Fixed you post buddy ;)

Also, the HKS Fcon V-Pro or iS are the easiest options (plug in, no splicing the loom, no CEL) for tuning the M35 but you will need to find a tuner licensed to work with them.

Actually, the Emanage & F-Con are just two ways of tuning an M35. Some might say they are necessary if you are chasing big numbers, but I'm not convinced as yet. One day I might disprove that theory, but I'm in no hurry right now :rolleyes:.

If you want control over your mixtures to tune for power or economy (or both), & be able to keep adjusting them yourself as you do more mods to your car, you only need 2 relatively cheap devices.

1) an accurate wideband meter/controller that has an output to feed into the ECU inplace of the factory EGO sensor. This allows you to a) know what your mixtures are doing as you tune, & b) fool the ECU into injecting the right amount of fuel when in closed loop (light cruise situations for example). This is one such wideband meter: http://www.14point7....Pure-Plus-2.php

2) a voltage interceptor to go between the AFM & the ECU to change the "load" that the ECU sees & therefore how much fuel it injects. The Jaycar fuel adjuster is OK, but I use their voltage adjuster as it has more load points & finer (infinetly so) adustments. http://www.jaycar.co...SUBCATID=965#11. There are probably plenty of others around.

The only caveat is with selecting injector sizes as you outgrow the originals (& it doesn't take long pinch.gif).

From my recent experience, the M35 ECU appears to have a separate map that it refers to above a certain rate of acceleration (or throttle opening etc). Below that you can have total control over your mixtures with the above devices - both under cruise conditions & decent acceleration.

After you install a bigger intake (suction pipe as it's known around here) the AFR's can be set perfectly well for the 2 conditions mentioned before, but under hard acceleration (when this other map is pulled in) the mixtures will be a bit lean. Mine went from mid 11's with factory intake (too rich IMO) to low 13's with bigger intake (a bit too lean for my liking). Having said that, I haven't tested under all climatic conditions or altitudes etc.

The simple fix is to increase injector size (or to a lesser extent maybe just fuel pressure will do) to suit the hard acceleration ECU map & retune (on the road will mostly do) for the light to medium loads as before. Obviously if you install injectors that are way too big you will run rich & if you don't go big enough you could still be a bit lean.

It is at this point where some might say that the 2 more expensive & difficult to implement solutions (depending largely on where you live) come into their own. Not a really an option for me, hence this long winded post on the path I have gone down.

Cheers, Leon.

Edited by Commsman

Stop farting around Leon and get the unit that's proven. Not much more than you have spent already. :)

Haha, even though I'm pretty sure I've spent less than most - certainly way less than you :happy:, it's not always about the money. Proven or not, who will tune Emanage or F-con around here? Answer, no one! Hell, there's not even a 4WD dyno this side of the Gold Coast, lol.

I'm happy that I can tune my car anytime I like, after any mod I put on (or remove), & it only takes me 20 mins to get it close enough to drive normally. Nothing wrong with any of your "name brand" methods. I'm just giving out an alternative that so far hasn't shown any downside (to me).

PS, I was looking forward to catching up last weekend, until Aaron bailed on me. Stupid Father's Day.

Edited by Commsman

I was crook anyway buddy, you didn't want to catch this one...

Worst case you could tune it yourself since all the tuners in the country seem to be limp d's with it. I could give you some good pointers.

What worries me with your bender is you wont be able to tune the low end without disconnecting the O2, and the top end will be running off the map sensor to some extent. so you can only tune a little in the middle by tricking the ecu. The EMU can do this, and a shite load more with its direct control over the injectors and timing adjustment if you want it. Remember, if you can install it the hard part is done as it runs off the stock map still with no data entered. (unless you change injectors.)

I hope you're feeling better now mate.

It's possible I may end up with an Emanage (or similar) in the future; I'm not ruling anything out. And you are right about the low end, I just drop the O2 sensor for a short drive & get those mixtures right. The 'middle" is a pretty broad area that encompasses more than enough acceleration for most overtaking duties, & I can make that as rich or as lean as I like. The top end is where I need to work on more, & I will only get that right by going with larger injectors. I've just got to choose the right size as I can't modify that part of the map (yet?).

At this stage I reckon I can get to a performance level I'm happy with using my current setup. I'm not out to break any records. But if I get bored after a while....:whistling:

  • 2 weeks later...

How is yours going Cam? Haven't heard anything, which could be good or bad...

Sorry mate, missed this question.

Good thus far.

From my local testing:

- Throttle is definitely improved, much more responsive and as predictable as the Magna's throttle (use a bit, get a bit, use a lot, get a lot etc)

- Current fuel "economy" sucks balls (definitely needs a tune) lol.

- no Air flow cut as yet

- positive boost at ~1750-1800rpm on around half throttle

Haven't been able to check the speed limiter removal, but going by everything else, I can't see why it would be there.

Interested to see what it will do as a plug and play unit on an M35 with intake and exhaust mods (standard fuel system, AFM, Nissan sensors, standard size turbo).

I think that the eManage with stock fuel system maxed out at 200awkw so I expect the Fcon to be around that, but hopefully more responsive.

Oh, I forgot... no CEL (well it meant a bit to me anyway) and can still pull codes using the engine light as per normal.

thats worth the money (almost)

the CEL would worry me all the time with the emanage

I didn't realise that was an automatic thing with the emanage, I thought it was only under certain circumstances.

Still Fcon is 2-3 times the cost.

Where are you getting it tuned?

  • 1 month later...

No....don't know what the 2 above are going on about!!!!....one of them doesn't even have an Emanage!....the other doesn't even have a Stagea anymore! :P

Chris Benny has no CEL coming on "."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.
    • Hmm, how does the R34 manage to have headlight relays then without getting excessive carbon buildup on the headlight switch contacts?
    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
×
×
  • Create New...