Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Was wondering if a local SAU member or anyone could just give me a hand with something.

I have a R34GTT and heres my problem:

The hose which measures and connects the boost gauge has disconnected from the unit in the engine bay. So one end is connected the engine side, but the other end is just sucking in air pointlessly, where it should be connected to a small unit.

I can't seem to get the unit out as I dont have a small enough wrench or what not to unscrew the unit, and engine work is not my forte.

Would be great if someone could just help connect the damn thing back as my car seems be misfiring and boosting strangely.

Will repay with beer. PM if you can help and which beer you like :)

Ill take a photo and diagram it up later, but its should be really simple.

Cheers,

Joe

Edit: Forgot to say, I live in the Hills area, cherrybrook. also near the dural bunnings if that helps. cheers!

Edited by JI34GT

mate it should be as easy as pushing the hose onto the barb fitting on the bottom. make sure there is no split in the hose, if there is cut the line shorter to remove the split. if its too short to reach then you will need to replace the whole run.

and yes its a boost leak so it will affect idle and cause missfires.

mate it should be as easy as pushing the hose onto the barb fitting on the bottom. make sure there is no split in the hose, if there is cut the line shorter to remove the split. if its too short to reach then you will need to replace the whole run.

and yes its a boost leak so it will affect idle and cause missfires.

Do you mean the pointy ended one sticking out or the smaller one inside? Sorry for the vague description, I could only feel underneath the unit. Coz last time this happened, I got it fixed at Powerplay (when I got new tyres) and the mechanic had to take the unit out first.

Also is there any long term damage from this? I've been busy at work so havent had the time to fix it.

Ill give it a try again, Thanks mate.

lol in that case take it back and tell Ali to do it properly this time :/ not like him to miss something he is the most anal mechanic I know!

if it's come off twice, most likely the hose is split. Im not familiar with the exact sender you mean but it will be a plastic barb with about the same diameter as the hose so it is a snug fit. for extra safety you can fit a cable tie to hold it all in place firmly.

Hahaha, nah Ali's a great mechanic, i think its just something wrong with my car, ever since i got it the hose keeps cracking and coming off. But this is the first time from the unit side. I've put it back in to a barb, not sure if its the right one, coz my boost gauge is not working and stuck on 0. So either its in the right barb and my boost gauge is now broken or its in the wrong barb. But its boosting properly now, so i think its the gauge. *sigh*

it will keep cracking and splitting, i had the same prob with mine (333gtst) for months, i just kept cutting and sticky taping (coz im lazy) but then it was even easier to buy a meter of new hose (similar diametre), took about 10 mins all up to redo them, i even took out the black box where one end of the hose connects to.... cost me about $2 or something. I just went to repco in dural and did it.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good afternoon Team , just a quick update on performance mods  Current Mods list (Installed) HKS - Power Editor (Came with the car) looks to be some kind of boost controller RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler Not Yet AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes  - to be installed in May 
    • I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
    • In the context of cam 'upgrader' I mean generally people who upgrade headers/cams - not my specific change. I mean it makes sense that if I had a bigger cam, I may get more false lean readings. So if I went smaller, I'd get less false lean readings. To a point where perhaps stock.. I'd have no false lean readings, according to the ECU. But I'm way richer than stock. My bigger than normal cam in the past also was giving false rich leanings. It's rather odd and doesn't add up or pass the pub test. Realistically what I want is the narrowbands to effectively work as closed loop fuel control and keep my AFR around 14.7 on light sections of the map. Which is of course the purpose of narrowband CL fuel control. So if I can change the switch points so the NB's target 14.7 (as read by my WB) then this should be fine. Haven't actually tested to see what the changed switchpoints actually result in - car needs to be in a position it can idle for awhile to do that. I suspect it will be a troublesome 15 min drive home with lots of stalling and way too rich/lean transient nightmare bucking away for that first drive at 2am or whevener it ends up being. Hopefully it's all tune-able. Realistically it should be. This is a very mild cam.
×
×
  • Create New...