Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Have a nice set of these Volk GT-U rims in 17x9 with a +22 offset. They have a great dish which can be seen in the pics. The rims are light gold, they have a small amount of gutter rush (the usual) but look awesome. Come with 245/45R Bridgestone Grid II tyres with approx 40% tread left.

Adelaide buyer prefered but will post interstate at buyer's expense if reqd.

$850 + pp

wheels.jpg

wheels3.jpg

wheels4.jpg

hay mate, u keen for swaps for pair of basically brand new 18x10+24 drift R's black spoke polished lip + cash ur way?

Hi Mate,

Do to the terrible Adelaide roads, not to mention police attention for a stock car which I've never been done for any traffic offence in, I'm probably looking at selling the whole car soon sorry. So just cash for these.

Cheers,

Matt

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Only reason to keep a MAF on your RB25 is to be able to easily calculate true VE if you know what the factory voltage curve represents in grams per second of flow. Also allows you to do things like pull the original OEM ignition + AFR target tables and use those as a starting point for your base map. Once you're well and truly done tuning though there's no need to retain the MAF.
    • Do you think they'll merge there performance divisions and we'll end up HoMo?
    • Very true, if buying new, I would not get an PP either. Minimum is an Elite 2500, which is also considered outdated. Get something that supports DBW, delete that cable throttle. Best thing I've ever done to the Skyline, next best is refreshing the A/C with a new condenser. It's cold, but not as cold as modern car, but colder than most 90s JDM shit boxes imported into Australia.
    • Haltech have a nice comparison table between the Elite and Nexus models -  https://www.haltech.com/ecu-buyers-guide/ In general, the Nexus is better. Haltech have some nice product videos on their YouTube page, I'd have a look at those and if you're still not confident what way to go, I'd give them a call. They have the best customer support of any company I've dealt with, I'm sure they'll be able to help you out. 
    • Not to mention, that the correct diagnostic approach to "electrical thing does not work" is to start with what I outlined above. You only do swaptronics for things that can't be tested really easily, like ignition coils, AFMs, etc etc. And even then you hold your breath in case the fault that possibly killed the original unit kills the swapped in unit too.
×
×
  • Create New...