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R33 Gts-t Randomly Stalling While Driving? Pls Help!


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bumpity x2

Hey mate same problem in my car... take the 4 screws off the air flow meter plug connection, then get a stanley knife or equivalent to open up the square that covers the AFM mainboard, once in there you'll notice 4 pins each should be soldered to 4 fork like connectors, my guess is they aren't just like mine wasn't, all you need is a soldering iron and pretty basic skills at best, push the 4 pins back against the forks and solder... TRUST me this fixes it, i had the exact same problem and i tried everything, then decided to take the AFM apart before i put a match to the whole F*%KING car.... lol.... give us a yell if you need more help or anything

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Hey mate same problem in my car... take the 4 screws off the air flow meter plug connection, then get a stanley knife or equivalent to open up the square that covers the AFM mainboard, once in there you'll notice 4 pins each should be soldered to 4 fork like connectors, my guess is they aren't just like mine wasn't, all you need is a soldering iron and pretty basic skills at best, push the 4 pins back against the forks and solder... TRUST me this fixes it, i had the exact same problem and i tried everything, then decided to take the AFM apart before i put a match to the whole F*%KING car.... lol.... give us a yell if you need more help or anything

Good fella, I'll try this tonight.

Cheers.

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how'd ya go mate, any luck?

Good fella, you were right, I took of the top square off the AFM, and one of the pins was just touching the fork connector. I got out the solder and melted it back together.

ALl sweet now for 2 weeks.

You've been alot of help mate, I was prepared to roll my car down a cliff

CHeers

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Mate im having the same problem but my engine is a stock as a rock ! it shits me so bad. From stop start going through gears and once I completed the gear change it shuts off.

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Yeah after I change gears, It doesnt cut out when driving in gear.

And yes I do have an atmospheric blow-off valve. If I took it off would that solve the problem ?

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And yes I do have an atmospheric blow-off valve. If I took it off would that solve the problem ?

Using a full atmo BOV will disrupt the signal to the AFM and cause over-fuelling.

If you really want a BOV, buy a hybrid which recirculates and vents to atmo which helps with the stalling issue, but doesn't entirely eliminate it.

Another thing is if you can get hold of one, HKS make an EIDS (Electronic IDle Stabiliser) which buffers dramatic AFM signal fluctuations. By buffering these fluctuations the EIDS prevents stalling associated with sudden imbalances in the air/fuel ratio of vehicles that use an atmo BOV.

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Using a full atmo BOV will disrupt the signal to the AFM and cause over-fuelling.

If you really want a BOV, buy a hybrid which recirculates and vents to atmo which helps with the stalling issue, but doesn't entirely eliminate it.

Another thing is if you can get hold of one, HKS make an EIDS (Electronic IDle Stabiliser) which buffers dramatic AFM signal fluctuations. By buffering these fluctuations the EIDS prevents stalling associated with sudden imbalances in the air/fuel ratio of vehicles that use an atmo BOV.

+1

Or when you change gears, make sure you shift to the next gear before revs reach 1,000 rpm.

Basically, the atmospheric BOV vents the air that should have originally recirculated back into the intake via the stock plumb back BOV.

So, you have air thats already been measured by the AFM escaping into the atmosphere, therefore, you AFR (air fuel ratio) will be distorted for a slight second because there will be an excess of fuel, hence, the stall of the engine.

Just change gears soon after you after you hear you BOV go off and youll be fine.

Cheers

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Good fella, you were right, I took of the top square off the AFM, and one of the pins was just touching the fork connector. I got out the solder and melted it back together.

ALl sweet now for 2 weeks.

You've been alot of help mate, I was prepared to roll my car down a cliff

CHeers

Too easy mate glad i could help

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  • 3 years later...

Its bit old thread but i need help..

I got 33 s2 and since i upgraded to 33 highflow turbo,car started droping rpm to 0 when i accellerate hard and back off to shift gear and it doesnt do that when im standing and reving.. Btw i dont have BOV,just blocked the hole..

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google "fixing rb26 afm's"

same thing applies to rb25 and its super easy to do if you have a soldering iron

if you don't have a soldering iron order a gas powered one from somewhere like deal extreme or ebay for like $20

its becoming a really common problem now but its such an easy fix

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Sounds like Reversion.

Put standard bov back on an plumb it into the intake pipe between the afm and turbo. Make sure the entry into the intake pipe is pointing at the turbo though

Edited by Mitcho_7
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Well i jus checked AFM and its not faulty,cleaned AAC, but still does same thing :/ just the weird thing is this wasnt happening 3-4 days ago,it just started when i upgraded on r33 high flow turbo..

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this sounds like the same problem i have on my daily (peugeot 306) it's gets worse the warmer they day (in winter it's almost nothing to worry about) summer every drive you go on it's cutting out and being a bitch, car even spent 2 weeks with a mechanic cpl years back and he couldn't fix it so i just gave up and put up with it.

might see if i can open up afm and see if anything is loose, would be sweet to sort it out before summer rolls around.

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