Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bumpity x2

Hey mate same problem in my car... take the 4 screws off the air flow meter plug connection, then get a stanley knife or equivalent to open up the square that covers the AFM mainboard, once in there you'll notice 4 pins each should be soldered to 4 fork like connectors, my guess is they aren't just like mine wasn't, all you need is a soldering iron and pretty basic skills at best, push the 4 pins back against the forks and solder... TRUST me this fixes it, i had the exact same problem and i tried everything, then decided to take the AFM apart before i put a match to the whole F*%KING car.... lol.... give us a yell if you need more help or anything

Hey mate same problem in my car... take the 4 screws off the air flow meter plug connection, then get a stanley knife or equivalent to open up the square that covers the AFM mainboard, once in there you'll notice 4 pins each should be soldered to 4 fork like connectors, my guess is they aren't just like mine wasn't, all you need is a soldering iron and pretty basic skills at best, push the 4 pins back against the forks and solder... TRUST me this fixes it, i had the exact same problem and i tried everything, then decided to take the AFM apart before i put a match to the whole F*%KING car.... lol.... give us a yell if you need more help or anything

Good fella, I'll try this tonight.

Cheers.

how'd ya go mate, any luck?

Good fella, you were right, I took of the top square off the AFM, and one of the pins was just touching the fork connector. I got out the solder and melted it back together.

ALl sweet now for 2 weeks.

You've been alot of help mate, I was prepared to roll my car down a cliff

CHeers

And yes I do have an atmospheric blow-off valve. If I took it off would that solve the problem ?

Using a full atmo BOV will disrupt the signal to the AFM and cause over-fuelling.

If you really want a BOV, buy a hybrid which recirculates and vents to atmo which helps with the stalling issue, but doesn't entirely eliminate it.

Another thing is if you can get hold of one, HKS make an EIDS (Electronic IDle Stabiliser) which buffers dramatic AFM signal fluctuations. By buffering these fluctuations the EIDS prevents stalling associated with sudden imbalances in the air/fuel ratio of vehicles that use an atmo BOV.

Using a full atmo BOV will disrupt the signal to the AFM and cause over-fuelling.

If you really want a BOV, buy a hybrid which recirculates and vents to atmo which helps with the stalling issue, but doesn't entirely eliminate it.

Another thing is if you can get hold of one, HKS make an EIDS (Electronic IDle Stabiliser) which buffers dramatic AFM signal fluctuations. By buffering these fluctuations the EIDS prevents stalling associated with sudden imbalances in the air/fuel ratio of vehicles that use an atmo BOV.

+1

Or when you change gears, make sure you shift to the next gear before revs reach 1,000 rpm.

Basically, the atmospheric BOV vents the air that should have originally recirculated back into the intake via the stock plumb back BOV.

So, you have air thats already been measured by the AFM escaping into the atmosphere, therefore, you AFR (air fuel ratio) will be distorted for a slight second because there will be an excess of fuel, hence, the stall of the engine.

Just change gears soon after you after you hear you BOV go off and youll be fine.

Cheers

Good fella, you were right, I took of the top square off the AFM, and one of the pins was just touching the fork connector. I got out the solder and melted it back together.

ALl sweet now for 2 weeks.

You've been alot of help mate, I was prepared to roll my car down a cliff

CHeers

Too easy mate glad i could help

  • 3 years later...

Its bit old thread but i need help..

I got 33 s2 and since i upgraded to 33 highflow turbo,car started droping rpm to 0 when i accellerate hard and back off to shift gear and it doesnt do that when im standing and reving.. Btw i dont have BOV,just blocked the hole..

google "fixing rb26 afm's"

same thing applies to rb25 and its super easy to do if you have a soldering iron

if you don't have a soldering iron order a gas powered one from somewhere like deal extreme or ebay for like $20

its becoming a really common problem now but its such an easy fix

Sounds like Reversion.

Put standard bov back on an plumb it into the intake pipe between the afm and turbo. Make sure the entry into the intake pipe is pointing at the turbo though

Edited by Mitcho_7

Well i jus checked AFM and its not faulty,cleaned AAC, but still does same thing :/ just the weird thing is this wasnt happening 3-4 days ago,it just started when i upgraded on r33 high flow turbo..

this sounds like the same problem i have on my daily (peugeot 306) it's gets worse the warmer they day (in winter it's almost nothing to worry about) summer every drive you go on it's cutting out and being a bitch, car even spent 2 weeks with a mechanic cpl years back and he couldn't fix it so i just gave up and put up with it.

might see if i can open up afm and see if anything is loose, would be sweet to sort it out before summer rolls around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...