Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, started my car this morning almost stalled it never does that, and from the rockercovers more aless the intake sound there is a knocking sound, ive noticed it b4 but it goes away and it came back its inside the engine, anythign to worry about? normal oil pressure, cool water temps?

and if so how much would it cost me to get the bottem end rebuilt? and or the top end? in perth

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/
Share on other sites

yea as i rev it it speeds up and as the revs come down the nose slows down and almost stops, but as it hits idel rpm its back

yo im having a simular issue, i just had a small prang the other day an i start the engine up to keep the oil from going stagnant... bout to get it fixed but im worried it may have hurt the engine although the damage was to the gaurd it didnt touch the engine bay but i dunno.. anyways... point is when my revs go up say 2grand i hear a knocking sound not the ur tipical injectors firing sorta sound but more like a rubbing sound or something more or less... once it goes idle sound goes away, also the fan got pushed back a nudge due to the impact... an literally a nudge an sounds like the sound is coming from the fan / front end of the engine area... so might be the fan itself no idea ill be taking it to get a full service an check up an what not as well as getting the gaurd fixed but yea just thought if any 1 has any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-4557088
Share on other sites

U better hope its your lifters, and try not to drive your car too long without getting it checked out. That happened to me, got it serviced but the mech was to much of a noob to find what was wrong, turned out that i did a bearing and broke a rod or something,,the knocking sound became a crucnhing sound. long story short, i did a top and bottom end rebuild, cost about 7k, cz i went and forged everything, but it ended up worth it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-4557102
Share on other sites

its not coming from the fan, ive spent so much money with my mechanic with my car, and itsb een making the sound since the last service when i had to get it over the pits, and it passed and no one noticed it, im getting greddy emanage installed and dyno'ed so ill see if he can check it out if it blows ill bash a rb26 in it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-4557219
Share on other sites

Get the knocking sound sorted before you dyno it. Last thing you want is it throwing a rod out the side of the block on the dyno.

If its rising with revs then theres a good chance that you have done a big end bearing, Ive been down this road once myself... never fun...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-4558239
Share on other sites

Get the knocking sound sorted before you dyno it. Last thing you want is it throwing a rod out the side of the block on the dyno.

If its rising with revs then theres a good chance that you have done a big end bearing, Ive been down this road once myself... never fun...

I second that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-4558281
Share on other sites

okay, i found some stuff out, when i start it for the first time in a day the noise is there only slightly not very loud, then as i drive around and after about 10-15 mins its pretty much gone, the only thing is when i rev it under the hood and the reves are coming back down there is a slight like rotating sound like if somethign were rotating but off balance sorta thing?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-4559213
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...
Get the knocking sound sorted before you dyno it. Last thing you want is it throwing a rod out the side of the block on the dyno.

If its rising with revs then theres a good chance that you have done a big end bearing, Ive been down this road once myself... never fun...

so im reading this article on knocking sounds and stuff and as above you've experienced this? just needed some help, woundering if you could lend some, so i have this slight very hard to hear knock starts at about 1200rpm and falls at 1600rpm sounds almost identical to this guys sound (

) on youtube if you have the time, but a lil less noticable, i dont know if its the timing belts or what =S as its coming from the front section of the engine directly where the timing belts sit ( i think at the front end of the engine?)

and now i have this thought it could be a knocking sound and now sorta seeking advice. and if it is? top or bottom and perhaps you might even know costs?

thnx any advice is much appreciated,

- Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-5024021
Share on other sites

It's not timing belt or tensioner.

I have the same noise. Have had for past maybe 5000km or so.

It isn't bottom end noise, I'm pretty sure of that.

I'm convinced it's in the valvetrain. And if it's this common, I'm going to suggest lifters. But just to be sure I've got consult cable coming.

Top end rebuild of an RB25DET guys - ball parks if you've had one?

Edited by Dorigecko
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-5024075
Share on other sites

If its a knocking sounds that seems like its coming from the rocket cover, or somewhere below, the harmonic balancer might be loose. You can tell if you rev the engine and the tapping increases. Obviously while at higher speeds it will be unnoticable. If this sounds like a familar story you could be ok and its as simple as just tightening the bolt which feeds through the harmonic balancer, may also need to adjusts your belts as well. However if you have left it for to long and its slowly come loose over a period of time which btw will be completly oblivious to you, kind of like a cancer through your bottom end and treating cancer is expensive...aka bottom rebuild. Never the less if your only just noticed you might be ok, as i bloody hope so, but i sugguest you get your car to an expierencd mechine asap, as this is an inherent curse RB's carry, i know i had cancer too :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-5024127
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...