Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have for sale:

R33 GTSt washer bottle (missing lid) $30

RB26 coil pack badge $30

Nismo engine mounts Part# 11220-RS585 (New) $260

B&M Oil cooler cores x2 (New) $150 each

R33 GTST Series 1 Manual ECU $50

RB26 plenum (Slightly squashed) $150

R33 GTSt air con condenser $50

R33 GTSt coilpacks $60

R33 GTSt O2 sensor $50

R33 GTSt water & air temp sensor $30 each

Nardi horn button $40

Tomei RB26 exhaust manifold gaskets (New) $100

Blitz silicone hose for boost controller $40

N1 Oil pump gears (New) $300

R33 GTSt climate control unit $50

R33 GTSt Nismo clutch pedal bracket $200

Cooloing Pro 3' Silicone hoses (New) $120

RB26 Fuel rail with Nismo FPR $100

R33 GTSt Gates radiator hoses (New) $100

R33 Cooling Pro 40mm radiator (New) $280

R33 GTSt air con compressor $50

R33 GTSt air con compressor accessories $30

R33 GTSt BOV and piping $50

R33 GTSt plenum and throttle body $50

Nismo fuel pressure regulator (New) $180

I am located in Sydney, happy to post interstate at buyers expense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267289-rb25-rb26/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...