Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok people its time to let my good friend go as i need a upgrade for work purposes (unfortunately)

1996 R33 GTS-t White Manual 122,000 kms.

Car has been serviced reg every 5,000 kms and i have been the only owner in Aust since the car was imported in 2005.

car has the follows mods

HKS Coilovers (adjustable)

HKS High Flow panel filter

Front Mount Intercooler (custom piping back through Std holes, ie not cutting)

Sparco Racing 17'' 235 front 255 rear

Bose Importing Split Dump/front pipe

Catco High Flow Cat

Blitz Nur Spec Cat Back

Exedy Sports Organic Clutch

Greddy Profec B spec 2 Boost controller (car runs 11 psi)

Apexi SAFC 2

Alpine Head unit (inc direct i-pod connection)

Alpine splits and 6x9

Cadence 4 way Amp

other parts that are not on the car : - Std turbo back, Side mount intercooler, Blitz BOV and M's pod filter.

Car is very clean, only blemishes are small tear on drivers bolster and the front spoiler is cracked (it can easily be repaired or taken off and it just bolts over the std spoiler)

$11,900 ono

any questions you can get me on 0412464683 or just pm me.

post-24776-1240824742_thumb.jpg

post-24776-1240824801_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267342-r33-gts-t-series-2-melb/
Share on other sites

PRICE DROP $10,500 ONO

THIS IS CHEAP PEOPLE CAR HAS SOME QUALITY MILD MODS ON HER!!

VERY REWARDING CAR TO DRIVE ESP ON WINDING ROADS :(

ONLY REASON WHY I'M SELLING IS BECAUSE I'M GETTING PRESSURE FROM WORK TO UPGRADE!!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...