Jump to content
SAU Community

Need 88 Skyline Diff/bearing Diagram

klrbro
 Share

Recommended Posts

klrbro Newbie

klrbro

Posted
Posted

Hi,

Got a bit of a prob, rear passanger side bearing disintegrated, with it the seal, and apparently there's a spacer that goes b/w the bearing and the cover that holds the whole thing together

Can someone supply me with a diagram of how this thing is meant to be put together?

BTW, I'm in PNG, so going down to the wreckers is not an option

Cheers

KB

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267443-need-88-skyline-diffbearing-diagram/
Share on other sites
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

In that case it's probably a local R31 with a live axle.

I guess the bearing your talking about is out on the end near the wheel eh!

If this is the case, the bearing you're talking about is just behind the axle mount flange. Correct?????

Cheers, D

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

And remember, it's a retainer, ie it retains the bearing on the shaft. More importantly, it retains the whole axle in the housing, preventing it (and your wheel) parting company with the car. Don't just bash the retainer on with a hammer. I'm inclined to think that if you need to ask questions on an internet forum, you probably should get someone more experienced to fit the bearings for you.

  • 2 weeks later...
OUTATIME Community Regular

OUTATIME

Posted
Posted (edited)

yea if aus r31 will b bw78 diff. will need 2 drop ur centre out and press off the old bearing. then just go 2 a bearing joint and match it up (dunno what auto places u have there?). just normal taper roller/plain bearing or something (cnt remember) nothing special. press new 1 back on and this ring ur talkin about is ur shim, it sets the backlash between the pinion and crown gear. goes between the bearing and diff housing will def need it.

should b pretty straight forward taking it out when looking at it.

take wheels off, slide disks off (floating rear), undo 4 bolt axle flanges, pull axles out, undo diff plate, undo 4 bolts on the bearing cups. then diff centre should just fall out, might have 2 jimmy it out with large screw driver etc...

close-ish just dw about the mini spool part. more stuff on that site\/

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?t...ng_a_Mini_Spool

Edited by OUTATIME
klrbro Newbie

klrbro

Posted
  • Author
Posted

We've got the bearing out, that's not a prob, but my mechanic recons there should have been a spacer holding the bearing in place. and we need the part numbers for the spacer/retainer and the seal

The old bearing was in bits and pieces when we took the cover and axel out...

N

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

:):D What is it about people posting tech how-to articles and them filling them with crappy mobile phone photos? Even the most basic phone takes half decent pics now, and digi cameras aren't that dear (my son's $70 job takes fantastic photos). Sorry for the rant but I take tech photos and write tech reports for a living and this kind of thing just sh!ts me no end.

Now that's out of my system, I have a Nissan Service Manual, and there are no pics in there showing the rear axle installation. It does, however mention the bearing retainer ring which goes on the inboard side of the bearing. Note this ring is never to be reused, and a new one will be supplied with the bearing kit. Your mechanic is correct - there should have been one. don't fret if you can't find it, as a new one will be supplied (as long as it's not floaring in your axle housing somewhere :banana: )

The photo below shows a Mazda RX2 setup, which uses the same concept as all live axle setups AFAIK. note that the locking collar has been welded to the axle in the photo - not what I'd call good practice, but it's how I got the car. Apparently it was a common fix for early Falcon (c1970's) when the rear axles used to pull out whilst driving.

post-266-1242276165_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...