Anyone With Lightweight Flywheel ?

[Touge Kyousou]

Hey V35'ers

Hoping for people running a lightweight flywheel to give some feedback/opinion as to how it changed the car ?

My mech recommended me to get a lightweight flywheel as my next mod and my clutch has done near 60 thou so probably a good time to start researching

[BLISTC]

hey mate

im going to be redoing my clutch soon as it is too on the way out at 55,000kms

my mechanic is bringing in his own line of coppermix clutches with lightened flywheels

im going to be a mule for him, so ill let you know how it goes

[Oaksey]

Mine apparently came with one from Japan, so can't really compare the before/after, but it drives well

Although it seems to be correct because of a very small downside, if you start the car when it is warm the computer doesn't catch and hold the revs at 500rpm with no throttle, so just have to depress the accelerator a little after starting when warm, then after a few seconds it's all good, could maybe be adjusted, might mention it next time I get it serviced but no biggie.

[MaXiMuS007]

Are you sure that's because of the flywheel? I've never heard of that before.

[Oaksey]

Not sure but it would make sense, holds less momentum, revs drop quicker with no throttle etc.

[Touge Kyousou]

Be interesting to see how it goes BLISTC, definitely keep us up to date! What weight will the flywheel be ?

Oaksey, i've also never heard of that phenomenon before in regards to running a lightweight flywheel. Usually, a car equipped with one will make audible (inside the cabin even) metal cling clang etc noises while just coasting around with the clutch engaged. Do you get that ?

Think my next mod might be custom tune actually, just found out some new stuff today

[dannyw]

i m hving similar problem, 2 different mechs said that it should be the o2 sensor problem (and the light is also on, shown in speedo)

I gotta depress every time (once little depress) i start the car when it is warm or above cold.. or else it will just stall..

No, i dont have the aftermarket flywheel.. so i dont think tat is the problem caused..

Mine apparently came with one from Japan, so can't really compare the before/after, but it drives well

Although it seems to be correct because of a very small downside, if you start the car when it is warm the computer doesn't catch and hold the revs at 500rpm with no throttle, so just have to depress the accelerator a little after starting when warm, then after a few seconds it's all good, could maybe be adjusted, might mention it next time I get it serviced but no biggie.

[BIGGERDave]

when i get a V35 this was one of the mods i'd been thinking of, very interested to know the gains associated with the new flywheel, apparently, bare with me here cos im a complete newbie at this whole car thing, but apparntly, u cant really measure HP gains, or at least ive never seen any associated with a new light weight flywheel. but i think becuase its lighter it spins up faster and more easily, due to half the weight of the original. so in saying that i dont think u can measure its gains HP wise, y not measure it 0-100 wise, as in say u do 3 runs, and get an average, then after the flywheel do 3 runs again and get another aveage, same place, temp etc etc.

can someone else please spread some light on the situation/what ive just said. cheers.

[Messiah]

when i get a V35 this was one of the mods i'd been thinking of, very interested to know the gains associated with the new flywheel, apparently, bare with me here cos im a complete newbie at this whole car thing, but apparntly, u cant really measure HP gains, or at least ive never seen any associated with a new light weight flywheel. but i think becuase its lighter it spins up faster and more easily, due to half the weight of the original. so in saying that i dont think u can measure its gains HP wise, y not measure it 0-100 wise, as in say u do 3 runs, and get an average, then after the flywheel do 3 runs again and get another aveage, same place, temp etc etc.

can someone else please spread some light on the situation/what ive just said. cheers.

your pretty much right on this one, a fly wheel mod does nothing for power but instead directly affects response.

Less weight means less inertia, so faster spin up, and also importantly, faster spin down.

This means that the car will be revier, on the flat should accelerate faster, but also will decelerate faster at times when the engine is under too high a load, such as going up a steep hill in a high gear. Basically the revs will drop faster and you'll need to shift down sooner.

Other than that its pretty straight forward, think of the flywheel as a battery for the engines momentum... heavier ones take longer to charge but hold more and as such take longer to discharge, lighter ones charge quick and lose charge quick.

[scathing]

Hoping for people running a lightweight flywheel to give some feedback/opinion as to how it changed the car ?

I had a JUN 14lb flywheel in my car, mated to an OEM clutch.

At low RPM it rattles, especially when you load the driveline in a higher gear.

The acceleration was improved, and when using the clutch the RPM didn't flare as much (despite a lack of throttle pedal input) and dropped faster, making it easier to upchange faster smoothly. Heel-toe changes were also easier to do since the throttle was more responsive to blips.

I did lose some ability to go up some hills in top gear, and having to change a bit more did negatively affect economy while commuting.

All in all, a worthwhile purchase for a performance driver. I don't think I could go back.

The JUN is for sale now, since I've got a Nismo Coppermix in the car.

[scathing]

Although it seems to be correct because of a very small downside, if you start the car when it is warm the computer doesn't catch and hold the revs at 500rpm with no throttle, so just have to depress the accelerator a little after starting when warm, then after a few seconds it's all good, could maybe be adjusted, might mention it next time I get it serviced but no biggie.

I've heard of a similar problem. The guy I bought my JUN from had the same problem, plus he found himself having to ride the clutch in from higher RPM (like 2K) to not stall. Mind you, his car had a rebuilt engine to Nismo S1 spec (internals, head work, cams, etc) which made it a little more sensitive to drops in low end torque.

I get a similar problem when I disconnect my ABS. Sometimes when I start the car it'll stall without a blip. Sometimes if I clutch in for a long period the revs will drop and it will stall, so I'll quite often have the engine cut out when coming to a halt. Plugging the ABS back in stops it.

Edited May 4, 2009 by scathing

[lyons]

did any1 get a lightweight flywheel?

1 bloke i know put a different flywheel in and he had a lot of drama with vibration/rattling on idle/low rpm because the standard 1 has a gel pack in the centre to stop the vibrations, his was so bad he changed it back to the stocko fly

[xscape237]

Anyone tried the ORC clutch + lightweight fly yet? If so, what are your impressions?

I purchased the same kit a while ago but havent bothered installing it... a bit worried given the negative comments floating around regarding other brands.

[lyons]

thats the same 1 my friend put in, well it was an orc kit

[whtbox]

if you want the lightened flywheels that don't annoy your from the Cement Mixer sound. Get either Nismo or the JUN.

Nismo i had experienced with, and Jun Flywheels my friend did it. It has a very minimal cement mixer sort off noise but livable.

Cheers

[VE35GT]

did any1 get a lightweight flywheel?

1 bloke i know put a different flywheel in and he had a lot of drama with vibration/rattling on idle/low rpm because the standard 1 has a gel pack in the centre to stop the vibrations, his was so bad he changed it back to the stocko fly

After reading a lot of reviews on G35 driver and 350zTech, I went with a JWT Clutch and Flywheel combo (14lb flywheel) from Concept Z Performance (ebay store) and would say there has been minimal increase in grinding/chatter noise (maybe 20% louder at idle and about the same if <2000rpm and the engine is under load e.g. climbing a hill, but no noise once above that rpm range). There was a 'slight' loss of torque (although we are talking about driving a manual, so if an extra gear change up a hill is going to be a deal breaker... well?). I can't comment on the effects on fuel economy as the car is a weekend/track only car and rarely travels the same route often enough to compare.

Positives are noticably quicker acceleration (VDC wants to kick in more often now when getting away from traffic lights, even when just trying for just a usual to moderate takeoff) and much easier heel /toe down changes (easier to match the revs, and no more forward lurches if you get the revs wrong going down through the gears). I think this alone really makes the car feel more performance oriented and more enjoyable to drive especially on a twisty road.

If you are thinking about the JWT clutch as well, I would say the clutch it's about 30% stiffer than stock (probably to the point that if you have a daily drive and do "bumper to bumper" traffic it's going to get a bit uncomfortable, but if you just weekend/cruise/joyride/track, then it's fine). But if you do the cafe/latte scene, then you might need to practice reverse parking once or twice before hitting the Mini Cooper sized parking spots, as the clutch has about half the 'slip' of the stock one and let's face it, there's no more inglorious arrival then finding that perfect spot out the front and then stalling your car while parking infront of your soy, decaf, doubleshot, extra hot, extra froth, organic, fairtrade expresso bean 'clique'!

I would say that the clutch really comes into it's own on the track; where it's a vast improvement to the stock set, with really solid connection after each gear change and no sign of slip even after a 15+ hot laps.

Would I buy both of them again? Definately yes for the flywheel, and yes for the clutch as long as the car never becomes a daily commuter in traffic!

[scathing]

Nismo i had experienced with, and Jun Flywheels my friend did it. It has a very minimal cement mixer sort off noise but livable.

I really should get around to advertising my JUN 14lb flywheel.....

[xscape237]

Bringing this thread back from the dead.

I tried to sell that ORC flywheel / clutch package a while ago, but the buyer didnt turn up as arranged. So i decided to keep it and had it installed just yesterday.

At idle its a little louder than stock but only audiable with the windows open.

When driving the chatter noise is very loud but it goes away after 2,000rpm. I personally dont mind it, but to other people the car might sound fairly broken.

The clutch pedal is very soft and streetable compared to whatever clutch i had in there before (it has nissan stamped on it, but was very heavy, so im not sure what the deal is there).

The car feels only very slightly quicker, maybe just a placebo. I seem to have adjusted to the difference already.

[3intheBack]

Bringing this thread back from the dead.

I tried to sell that ORC flywheel / clutch package a while ago, but the buyer didnt turn up as arranged. So i decided to keep it and had it installed just yesterday.

At idle its a little louder than stock but only audiable with the windows open.

When driving the chatter noise is very loud but it goes away after 2,000rpm. I personally dont mind it, but to other people the car might sound fairly broken.

The clutch pedal is very soft and streetable compared to whatever clutch i had in there before (it has nissan stamped on it, but was very heavy, so im not sure what the deal is there).

The car feels only very slightly quicker, maybe just a placebo. I seem to have adjusted to the difference already.

Yep, I got an ORC as well. The dicky throw out bearing doesnt help with the idling noises, but it certainly chatters and grinds away up to 2000rpm. What I dont get is how it completely dissapears almost instantly at 2000, not matter what gear you are in.

Couple of ways to fix it, dont go below 2000rpm, or above 4th gear around town, or keep the windows and stereo volume up.

Only real issue is - it doesnt seem to have much torque at idle so you need a few revs or it tends to want to stall on take off. (But then I havent had it any other way, so maybe this is standard with the V35)

[xscape237]

Yep, I got an ORC as well. The dicky throw out bearing doesnt help with the idling noises, but it certainly chatters and grinds away up to 2000rpm. What I dont get is how it completely dissapears almost instantly at 2000, not matter what gear you are in.

Couple of ways to fix it, dont go below 2000rpm, or above 4th gear around town, or keep the windows and stereo volume up.

Only real issue is - it doesnt seem to have much torque at idle so you need a few revs or it tends to want to stall on take off. (But then I havent had it any other way, so maybe this is standard with the V35)

Cool. I agree with the instant 2000 rpm thing, very wierd.

You are right, it does take a few more revs to get going off the line.

After some more driving yesterday i can confirm that it has made a noticeable difference to accelleration in at least first and second gears.