Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

long story short, i am looking to upgrade my brakes as i want better stopping power, and i can get hold of a set of GTR34 brakes with discs, just wanna know if it will bolt straight on? now i know that i need to trim the hat(the plate behind the disc? not sure what they called) to fit the bigger diameter disc, but i wanna know if the caliper will botl straight on to the existing mount or i need to custom made some brackets to hold them in place.

also, can anyone tell me how good is the gtr34 brembo work? i havent tried them but have compared mine to an EVO8 and they are like 1000 times firmer/stiffer than mine.

any help will be good.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267480-gtt-upgrading-brakes/
Share on other sites

34 gtr brembo work about 25-30% better then Gtt brakes over all, and they should bolt straight on, (sure it only fits a gtr disk since it is bigger then gtt's in dia.)

and also you need a diff. off set wheels to fit that in, since the gtt stock wheels wont fit

(EVO8 and they are like 1000 times firmer/stiffer)= both the GTR and GTT, are towards the loss side compare to evo or sti, (doesnt mean the brakes is shit) that is jsut different style the brakes have in different cars , forexample my 04 cocolla's brakes are firm but come to stopping power that is way less then the gtt, but any the GTR brakes are for sure feel better

all so if you want to improve the brake feel and brake power (firm/stiffer) you can put in a set of good pads, Stanless Mesh brake lines, cusco brake Cylinder stopper . all that not only will help the feel but, should have better performence too

Edited by SKYGTT

thanks for your reply, it is very much appreciated, it has cleared alot of stuff in my mind, i am in the situation of thinking weather to get this brake set or not, i guess now i will compare prices and performance in order to come up with a solution.

cheers.

What pads are you currently running in the GT-T? I noticed a massive difference upgrading just the pads on mine if yours still have the stock pads they are absolutely shocking pads compared to even Ferodo Formulas which have a decent friction coefficient for the $125 trade price an end. My car went from feeling worse than my daily in some situations to a very confident powerful stopping force. If you have the money something like the Ferodo DS2500 is a nice pad, a little pricey, but still cheaper than changing calipers, rotors etc. I upgraded my R33 brakes to R34 GT-T ones and was disappointed with the results but it was the pads letting me down as the calipers still had the stock Nissan pads. Once all changed it was a completely different braking experience felt like you were braking in a different car.

Also what fluid are you using? You will get a slightly better pedal feel, but more importantly it will not boil!, running decent fluid in a properly bled system its amazing how many people upgrade their rotors, pads, caliper etc and then run $5-$10 brake fluid. I currently run the Motul RBF660 and it has never let me down by boiling on a spirited drive. Yes its $40 a bottle and you really need to buy two to do a proper flush out and bleed but its $80 that can stop you loosing all braking power when they get too hot talking from experience here, luckily I don't mind drifting as I was forced to drift around a tight bend to make it around the corner when the brake fluid boiled on me and I lost all braking power. I look at it as cheap insurance and it doesn't need changing that often so its relatively cheap overtime.

If you are still running the stock lines I would keep them did the whole braided line upgrade really wasn't that impressed and after reading autospeeds testing of stock vs braided lines I could see why as the difference in flex is minimal, so minimal its probably impossible to really feel on your foot with a shoes on etc so I ended up swapping back to stock ones R34 ones on my R33 (so they were slightly fresher rubber).

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Braided-Bra...79/article.html

For anyone reading this with a R33 the best mod I found (yes im giving away my secret as everyone that has met me with a r33 has heard lol) is to fit a R34 GT-T brake booster to the R33. Its a tight squeeze as its almost twice the size just clearing the clutch master and gives you a massive increase in pedal feel. Anyone who has driven cars that are only a couple of years old and in particular european cars + new hyundais would have noticed they have massive pedal feel with huge braking force. In my job I became curious as to how these cars had tiny rotors, relatively small calipers yet fearce stopping power. Upon popping the hood on them they all had very large booster/servo units which lead me to my mates shed where he has every model skyline and we noticed that the R34 GT-T booster was twice the size of the R33 GTS-t! They are reasonably rare as not many wreckers are wrecking R34's yet so may almost be cheaper to buy one new than wreckers but 100% worth the effort. Combine that with good pads and fluid and you will be very happy with your braking force. I too was chasing the Brembo trail till I read about the relatively small improvement they would give given all the financial outlay and effort.

Edited by nigelswazi

thanks for your valuable information, i am still using stock lines with URAS street pads, havent beld the oil yet but will do it soon coz i need to change my pads very very soon. will give the motul oil a go and see what differences are there.

cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So my R32 GTST has been sitting around at my old mum and dad's place for a few years now...and it's time to bring it home. Main issue I have is that she hasn't been started in about 5 years or so, so I'm not too keen on just kicking it over and hoping that RB20 reputation for being un-killlable extends to long periods of neglect. My plan is to get it running there so I can move it around,  then get it towed back to my place where I can start working on it properly. The old folks driveway is a bad place to start a project like that. I'm getting old too and also haven't stuffed around with cars since forever, so kinda learning this stuff again. So far I've siphoned out all the shitty old fuel and topped up the coolant (thought it was fully dry but took 2 litres to fill the radiator). Planning on hitting the rusty rotors with some brake cleaner in case the tow truck driver gets a bit gung ho loading it up. As far as oil, it's got plenty although it's now dark in colour and obviously needs a change sooner rather than later. Was doing some YouTube research and was planning to hand-crank the motor from the harmonic balancer with a 37mm socket and breaker bar, removing the spark plugs and spraying some "fogging oil" in the holes but there's not much room to get in there with the radiator fan right up against it. Jacking the car up takes too long and I can't leave it half done between visits. So now I'm was thinking of cranking a few times it using the starter (removing plugs and spraying oil first). Reckon there's any chance it will do more damage that way if something's stuck inside the motor? Should I really change all fluids completely before I go any further? Grateful for any other advice you guys have to get her going safely too.      
    • Well, that's just wierd. Amongst a string of seemingly benign introduction and request for help threads, we have this one with a link.... to another, unrelated thread inside this forum. Colour me suspicious.
    • Sorry to say, I think that is a pretty long shot on this forum.....
    • sorry, "info" from Lumley here: https://www.lsvcarinsurance.com.au/about-nrma-insurance
    • So it looks like Lumleys are closing other than in Victoria, with the kind offer that another brand from the evil IAG multi-glomerate (NRMA) might offer insurance under their price and conditions if they want to, as an alternative. Lunmleys was good for us because they covered JDM and USDM imports, had 2 car "stable" insurance (ie, insure many cars but max of 2 can be driven at once), covered mods, reasonable overall prices. So, with them gone, who else should I consider? Shannons is last on my list, we used to be insured with them until we found they were helpful at taking premiums but much less helpful at claim time.
×
×
  • Create New...