Announcements
-
Similar Content
-
-
Latest Posts
-
i ordered a head gasket test kit to make sure its not that. I could test the injectors and Coilpacks by unplugging them and see if the idle Changes? Id check for A vacume leak by spraying break clean and see if the idle changes? i have an endoscope for checking the valves. What can i do to check Ringlands. Have I forgotten any test i should do? I'll upload a video of the idle later after work/charging the battery -
FYI. I have a R34, not a R33. I noticed that the stock gauge would be middle at 104C. Then completely pegged to H at 105. It moves gradually between middle and hot, it physically takes time to move. (same as it takes time to move from cold to OK) It only has 3 actual settings, "Too cold", "OK" and "Too Hot" -
By Murray_Calavera · Posted
The car hates me. I'm 100% sure it's become sentient and actually hates me. Cold start this morning, perfect. Cold start after finishing work, perfect. Didn't go straight home, parked at the shops.... go back to the car for a hot start, nothing. Pump doesn't prime. Currently waiting for the car to cool down, fingers crossed it starts again once it's cold again. -
Both the black plug (red/white/black wires) and the grey plug (yellow/green/brown wires) go to the location at the front of the plenum. I didn't recognise the wire colours in your first photo of the grey plug because they are so dirty. -
What Josh was saying is that the stock gauge reads dead on centre across a really wide range of temperatures, from "not quite up to operating temperature" all the way to "you're just about to cook it". That means that if you ever see the gauge over the 50% mark it is actually very bloody hot, and yes, you might have done the gasket at that time. Or, you might not. Head gaskets can fail so that coolant enters the cylinder, exhaust gases enter the coolant, oil enters the coolant or water enters the coolant, or any of the possible combinations. Just not seeing emulsified oil in the radiator is not sufficient to rule out gasket failure. You also need to test the coolant pH, to look for dissolved combustion gases (CO2 -> carbonic acid when dissolved in water). A fluffy idle could be from a dying/dirty injector, dying coilpack (or perhaps damaged sparkplug), a vacuum leak on the inlet manifold gasket, broken piston/ringlands or burnt exhaust valve, and any of a number other things. You need to start working through the list.
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now