Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After having a look at the various threads on people replacing their OEM swaybars with thicker whiteline one's and the overwhelming positive response they receive I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to do the same with my NA R34.

I'm not sure if it's just my car, but it appears that the NA R34 coupes did not come with a rear swaybar as standard!!!

So my question is, if this is the case, has any other n/a r34 owners fitted rear swaybars to their cars?

If so what are the parts required (other than the swaybar duh), any modifications required to fit and approx cost?

Also what diameter swaybar people went with and the part # would be an excellent help to me :D

Thanks in advance to those who respond...

Resh

Oh and before anyone says "do a search"... I have and can't find any info on NA R34 swaybars. After learning of differences in suspension set ups between the n/a and turbo's I thought I'd ask here before dropping a couple of hundred one something that doesn't fit.

Edited by resh
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i would recommend doing both front and rear.

fronts go for a thick 24mm one (adjustable or fixed doesnt matter), usually the largest fixed one you can get.

rears go for something around the same size maybe 22mm but definitely an adjustable for the rear.

the swaybar settings will be dependent on your coilover setup.

normally you will be experiencing some understeer or oversteer.

harden up the rear swaybars to induce oversteer

soften up the rear swaybars to induce understeer

that's pretty much it in a nutshell, the setup is of course a little more dynamic than that and highly dependent on tyre grip!!

swaybars will ultimately reduce body roll when doing high speed turns. the weight is distributed to the inside wheels and you therefore put more tyre grip on the road.

hope that helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much more harsh is the ride in an R34 after fitting both front & rear H/D Sway Bars ? (whiteline)

I don't 'think' that sway bars make the ride harsher, rather just stabilise the load between the two sides of the vehicle.

I can't really comment too much on the before and after with sway bars as I also had 30mm lowered king springs fitted at the same time as my whiteline bars, but I can definitely say that it made a difference to the body roll.

The combination of spring/shocks and tyres/tyre pressure used would make a lot more difference to comfort.

I am in no way a suspension expert but that is how I understand it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah Nathan you've had some fitted?

I'm aware you have a sedan but do you know what was required in order to fit the swaybars?

Did you just use the same part numbers at the turbo and it was more or less plug and play or did you have to add anything else that the NA was missing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To be honest, I'm really not sure... I got a quote from Fulcrum for springs sway bars and fitting + alignment and they ordered the parts. They may be the same? Sydneykid will probably be able to answer that question for you. Or give Whiteline a call.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GTR parts tend to have different mounting points. I believe another member on this forum has found out the hard way after purchasing parts for his na r34 only to find that he requires GTR parts (as the GT-V's have the same 4wd setup). Unsure about r33's but if the r34 is anything to go off I would be pretty certain they are not compatible.

Also for everyone else who is interested I've shot off a quick email to whiteline in regards to the NA R34 compatibility and what's additional components are required (if any).

I'll post up their response once I've received it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll try dig up my invoice from Fulcrum to see what part numbers are on it. If I recall there was mention of GTR on a couple of parts, I just thought maybe its just the way they entered the inventory on their system, perhaps a part suitable for most models... but maybe it is in fact different.

I'll see what I can find later tonight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's amazing how many companies who are supposed to know these things will term interchangeably use any skyline variant. For example the place i took my r34 to get coilpacks and a general service done printed R34 GTS on the invoice. Pretty sure there is no such thing as an R34 GTS!

If you can just get the part numbers later on Nath I'll cross reference the whiteline website to see if they are indeed parts interchangeable with the GTR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bring it up in suspension. I can't seem to find it anywhere! which is strange cause I keep all my car stuff in a folder...that I try not to look at lol I wouldn't have thrown it though as it had all the alignment results etc.. so if it comes up somewhere I'll post up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We just put the Whiteline bars on my 32. We just took the rear back off and put the standard one back on.

Reason being my lap times were no better in some case's worse.

The bars we got have 2 setting's (I dont know if they are soft/med or med/hard) we tried them on the far end setting, no good, moved them both to the inside setting, was a little better but still heaps of exit oversteer. The front feels good but the rear doesnt. We only have basic setup, no coilovers, tyres that are getting old.

I read that its better to have a stiffer front and a softer rear so we will try that and see how it goes. Problem is we just dont have the money to go testing so it will be race day before I know if its good or bad. Which is NOT good.

Visit My Website

Edited by johnGTS-t
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow - that sure is news to me... I thought all "modern" cars regardless of brand etc.

Reason being my '83 Bluebird (not a TRX) has a stock rear sway bar as well has the R31 skylines out there....

My R34 n/a (non- gt-v) sedan has them stock - I imagine the R34 coupes will have them stock due to being more "sportier" so to speak.

I just want to clarify are you refering to the rear strut brace (this is the brace you see in the boot and rarely comes with with almost any car) as opposed to the rear swaybars (which are "under" the car)?

After having a look at the various threads on people replacing their OEM swaybars with thicker whiteline one's and the overwhelming positive response they receive I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to do the same with my NA R34.

I'm not sure if it's just my car, but it appears that the NA R34 coupes did not come with a rear swaybar as standard!!!

So my question is, if this is the case, has any other n/a r34 owners fitted rear swaybars to their cars?

If so what are the parts required (other than the swaybar duh), any modifications required to fit and approx cost?

Also what diameter swaybar people went with and the part # would be an excellent help to me :banana:

Thanks in advance to those who respond...

Resh

Oh and before anyone says "do a search"... I have and can't find any info on NA R34 swaybars. After learning of differences in suspension set ups between the n/a and turbo's I thought I'd ask here before dropping a couple of hundred one something that doesn't fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ah, good point Mark but surely Resh knows where he should be looking.

I've had the adjustable Selby front and rear swaybars and whiteline pineapples in my car for over 12 months now (from memory) they joined the Aus-spec Tein SS's. I installed the rear bar and pineapples myself but had to take the front swaybar to a shop to put on. I couldn't believe how much the swaybars improved steering feel and stability but they also increased ride harshness. the front bar is on the softest setting and the rear bar is on medium (again from memory). the teins are also on their softest setting.

i really can say, 'the car handles'. the amount of corner speed i can maintain is awesome and it always feels planted giving remarkable feedback.

i remember a cruise i was on towards the end of last year up north of brisbane going through some good twisties to get to the final meeting spot I had a GT-t behind me which couldn't keep up although I'm unsure of the GT-t's level of mods and drivers experience.

also as a reminder my car is a GT-V.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mark I can understand how absurd it sounds that an R34 of all cars would not have it at standard but I assure you mine does not have one (and yes, I'm not confusing this with a strut brace). At first I thought that the owner in Japan must have removed it but after hours of searching this forum I found one or two others who have also realised they do not have one.

Of course there is that possibility that the Japanese owners of all of our cars were deluded and thought it would be a clever idea to remove the sway bar, but if they were that way inclined they wouldn't be driving skyline's in the first place!

For anyone who is keeping an eye on this thread I still haven't received a response from whiteline or another suspension/handling mob I've emailed but I'm sure the coming of the working week will bear some fruitful responses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ah, good point Mark but surely Resh knows where he should be looking.

I've had the adjustable Selby front and rear swaybars and whiteline pineapples in my car for over 12 months now (from memory) they joined the Aus-spec Tein SS's. I installed the rear bar and pineapples myself but had to take the front swaybar to a shop to put on. I couldn't believe how much the swaybars improved steering feel and stability but they also increased ride harshness. the front bar is on the softest setting and the rear bar is on medium (again from memory). the teins are also on their softest setting.

More info regarding the ride harshness please Reggi :P Been thinking about fitting a set.

You can PM me if you want. Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Okay, with all that being said about sloppy blowing from twins, I happily acknowledge the superiority of a single turbo setup on the RB; however, I still plan on double trouble.  I know the -9s were quite popular for some time because they seemed to meet that sweet spot between the -7s and 5s, would introducing VCAM and/or stroking to 2.8L provide the additional displacement/flow to push twins closer to the 500-600 goal?  Does it make more sense for a daily to just do an engine overhaul, slap some -7s on it and enjoy a bit more reliable power?  Has anyone driven a mine's overhauled and tuned engine?  I know they certainly don't approach the power numbers that you drag monsters do down under, but for daily street usage, I just want it to be fun and healthy.
    • Mmmm. Perhaps more correctly stated that the one turbo doesn't actually force air back down the throat of the other. All it does, and all it has to do, is be pumping a little harder than the other turbo (which is an effect of how the turbos are getting driven by the exhaust and inherent resistance to output air flow that each turbo sees up to the merge). If the turbo that is not flowing quite as much then nudges the stall line (because it gets pushed there by the higher flowing one stealing the limelight and moving its own operating point further from the stall line), then you get the behaviour described by Josh. There is no need for air to move backwards in any way. It just needs to be less air moving forwards than is required to stay to the right of the surge line.
    • GTX2860R Gen 2 is an option. No, it doesn't actually do much. The basic problem with wanting 600 whp out of the factory twin turbo setup is a few things. One is that the twin turbo piping is just so, so inefficient. The front and rear turbos are not actually working evenly. The rear turbo is always moving more air than the front. On top of this the OEM rear compressor inlet is rubber that likes to collapse causing a huge intake restriction. The merge doesn't even wait until the intercooler to happen, and it happens at a 90 degree angle. This is why you see some discussion about "turbo shuffle", where in certain conditions one turbo can actually force air to go backwards into the other compressor and stall it out, then once the other turbo recovers it stalls out the first turbo in a cycle until you do something to break out of it. The other issue is that the RB26 is just not that efficient an engine. It needs a surprising amount of ignition timing to reach MBT for a given cylinder pressure so all that time in which the cylinder is pressurizing before TDC is just wasted energy. An N54 might be around 10 degrees BTDC on a stock turbo getting into the boost. An RB26 is closer to 25 BTDC. Net effect is a turbo roughly the size of what HKS uses on the GTIII-SS (smaller than the R3/GCG Japan "GT2860-1" -7s) is only good for maybe 550 crank hp or low 400 whp while a roughly comparable turbo on an N54 can deliver something like 700 crank hp and obviously drivetrain losses are greatly reduced when you aren't burning a bunch of power on keeping a hydraulic pump + transfer case preloaded all the time. So yes, you can make a lot of power but there's a reason why people go single turbo for the numbers you're asking about. Don't forget that the RB26 can't even do a straight line pull without oil starving on the stock oil pan either. Baffles can help, but really you just need more oil capacity.
    • Yeah sure, which messenger app is it?
    • would you like to be added to the messenger group?
×
×
  • Create New...