Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All good mate. Just making sure :P

Mark I can understand how absurd it sounds that an R34 of all cars would not have it at standard but I assure you mine does not have one (and yes, I'm not confusing this with a strut brace). At first I thought that the owner in Japan must have removed it but after hours of searching this forum I found one or two others who have also realised they do not have one.

Of course there is that possibility that the Japanese owners of all of our cars were deluded and thought it would be a clever idea to remove the sway bar, but if they were that way inclined they wouldn't be driving skyline's in the first place!

For anyone who is keeping an eye on this thread I still haven't received a response from whiteline or another suspension/handling mob I've emailed but I'm sure the coming of the working week will bear some fruitful responses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Found the invoice!

Here goes with an extract:

BNF24Z Swaybar-h/duty Blade adjustable

BNR11Z Swaybar-h/duty Blade adjustable

KDFL-101 NISSAN SKYLINE GTR NZ Fr LOWER

KDRL-61SP NISSAN SKYLINE R33 GTR Rr LOW

SPF0984K UNIVERSAL SWAY-BAR BRACKET

Looking at this site, the swaybar codes match up as being front and rears for R33 and R34 RWD.

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112382

The KD Codes are for the king springs. I listed them above for informational purposes since parts for a R34 N/A Sedan components were in question here. Hope that the codes are accurate, basically transposing what I have here.

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Just an update for anyone who is wondering what has been happening with this...

Whiteline have replied and surprise surprise they aren't sure if the R34 GTT part will fit!

However, the part they have said should fit is the same as Nath has listed which is BNR11Z which comes with all the required components except the D-Bush saddles (which I'm assuming is the universal sway bar bracket listed in Nath's list).

Here is a link to what the whiteline kit contains http://www.rcephotos.com/photos/Whiteline/BNR11Z

I'm just about ready to bite the bullet and go ahead with it all, just need to work out a wrecker to get those D-bush saddles from (as they are present on the GTT) and where I can get the swaybar from at the best price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTX2860R Gen 2 is an option. No, it doesn't actually do much. The basic problem with wanting 600 whp out of the factory twin turbo setup is a few things. One is that the twin turbo piping is just so, so inefficient. The front and rear turbos are not actually working evenly. The rear turbo is always moving more air than the front. On top of this the OEM rear compressor inlet is rubber that likes to collapse causing a huge intake restriction. The merge doesn't even wait until the intercooler to happen, and it happens at a 90 degree angle. This is why you see some discussion about "turbo shuffle", where in certain conditions one turbo can actually force air to go backwards into the other compressor and stall it out, then once the other turbo recovers it stalls out the first turbo in a cycle until you do something to break out of it. The other issue is that the RB26 is just not that efficient an engine. It needs a surprising amount of ignition timing to reach MBT for a given cylinder pressure so all that time in which the cylinder is pressurizing before TDC is just wasted energy. An N54 might be around 10 degrees BTDC on a stock turbo getting into the boost. An RB26 is closer to 25 BTDC. Net effect is a turbo roughly the size of what HKS uses on the GTIII-SS (smaller than the R3/GCG Japan "GT2860-1" -7s) is only good for maybe 550 crank hp or low 400 whp while a roughly comparable turbo on an N54 can deliver something like 700 crank hp and obviously drivetrain losses are greatly reduced when you aren't burning a bunch of power on keeping a hydraulic pump + transfer case preloaded all the time. So yes, you can make a lot of power but there's a reason why people go single turbo for the numbers you're asking about. Don't forget that the RB26 can't even do a straight line pull without oil starving on the stock oil pan either. Baffles can help, but really you just need more oil capacity.
    • Yeah sure, which messenger app is it?
    • would you like to be added to the messenger group?
    • Found some from 2009. The lobster bends were smoothed out on the inside with minimal gaps (perhaps 2mm) where the silicone joiners were used. 
    • And if you have to drive it in a civilised (or excessively woke) US state, find a way to register and insure it in a redneck state, so you can roll coal in it without worrying about legalities.
×
×
  • Create New...