Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My springs are hard as hell, insanely hard, and it's standard ride height so instead of getting new springs i'm thinking about cutting em.. i know this is dodgy but yeh,

A friend of mine said it's possible to take the spring off, and pull it up slightly so that one of the coils is sitting over the top of the tower part (mine has around 4 coils left over) and this will lower it without me having to cut em

I know it's dodgy but.. yeh curious if anyones ever heard of that second method?

Car is a r32 gts-t with aftermarket coilovers not sure which brand

Edited by 123456
....prefer to work on performance a bit if that was the case :P....

What are you talking about?!?!?!

Suspension is a key part of performance. What do you want to do, work on the engine then destroy any ability to use the benefits.

As mentioned above, dont be a dumbass a just do it properly.

lol, you guys buy my car and you can do whatever you want with it, ok

My car already handles better than it goes by far, i cant hardly kick the back out,

People lower their cars all the time FYI. by putting shorter springs.. it's just shorter.. and they're already tight as all hell.. either way the car sits lower.. because of a shorter spring..

So no one i'm assuming has heard of pulling the coils up top like i explained earlier?

Edited by 123456

never heard of pulling them over the strut top, and I don't understand how you could keep them in place and ensure they don't rise or fall.

plenty of people have cut springs and survived, just keep it to a decent length (eg 1 coil).

However...you said "My springs are hard as hell, insanely hard".

Cutting a spring makes it harder by the % you remove (eg if you cut one coil of 8 it is 9/8ths firmer). You will lower it but make it firmer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
    • BTW, the reason I came in here to "update" this list was that the Garrett G Series II range have been released and I've updated the list with their flow details if you're curious to check how they fit with previous Garretts and other brands The G-Series II G35 990 looks like a banger...
×
×
  • Create New...