Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The time has come to start buying bits for my rb30, however, i am stuck on what pistons to get. i'm not going for excessive amounts of power, between 240 - 260rwkw is what im aiming for. reading the rb30 thread some seem to think forging a 30 for this kind of power is excessive, and i'm wondering if the money could be better spent elsewhere. has anybody put new factory pistons in ? or does anyone know of any aftermarket cast piston kits? thoughts/experience?

thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The time has come to start buying bits for my rb30, however, i am stuck on what pistons to get. i'm not going for excessive amounts of power, between 240 - 260rwkw is what im aiming for. reading the rb30 thread some seem to think forging a 30 for this kind of power is excessive, and i'm wondering if the money could be better spent elsewhere. has anybody put new factory pistons in ? or does anyone know of any aftermarket cast piston kits? thoughts/experience?

thanks!

Had a factory rebuilt engine with factory clearances and pistons up to around 300rwkw. However it busted a ring land about 2months later with a batch of bad fuel. I would think that 240-260rwkw would be fine as long as your not choking up the exh side with a small turbo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a factory rebuilt engine with factory clearances and pistons up to around 300rwkw. However it busted a ring land about 2months later with a batch of bad fuel. I would think that 240-260rwkw would be fine as long as your not choking up the exh side with a small turbo.

ah gutted thats how i lost my last engine!! did you rebuild with forged pistons then? out of interest how does a small turbo effect a big engine? does it affect cylinder scavenging and build up ex gas ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

small turbos on larger capacity engines can choke up the exhaust side, causing excessive back pressure in the manifold, which in turn keeps cylinder temps higher the normal via the back travel of heat. On the plus side you would have awesome response, but it would more then likely be prone to detonation, especially if the tuning isnt too good.

so yeh, its messes with scavenging and creates a flow restriction which is the last thing you want in a turbocharged engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for replies guys. gonna check prices and see if its worth doing, they might be exspensive enough to just go for forgies anyway.. we will see i will report my findings.

LRyder - Would be difficult to port the standard manifold with it being cast iron! doesnt seem worth it to me

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LRyder - Would be difficult to port the standard manifold with it being cast iron! doesnt seem worth it to me

Yeh was just an idea, as I have seen it done on 300zx. UAS actually sell ported kits for 300's, but yes abit off topic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
    • Deeve, I don't suppose that you've made any progress on this? My Stagea has the exact same problem, and just like you, I've read through as much as I can online, with no real progress. My car isn't throwing any codes at all, which is a little frustrating. I've changed plugs, checked the wiring and harness. A new MAF gets here next week, but I'm not hopeful it will solve the issue.
×
×
  • Create New...