Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it would be much appreciated if some one could shed some light on the pros and cons with importing or buying local gtr35. Not fussed much on anything else rather than cost, performance ,servicing costs and other hidden costs. would insurance cover the same if i bought it local. thanks. :cool:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267793-gtr35-jap-spec-vs-gtr35-aust/
Share on other sites

it would be much appreciated if some one could shed some light on the pros and cons with importing or buying local gtr35. Not fussed much on anything else rather than cost, performance ,servicing costs and other hidden costs. would insurance cover the same if i bought it local. thanks. :blink:

I'd say depreciation and insurance costs would be bigger cost items than losing the warranty.

I'd say depreciation and insurance costs would be bigger cost items than losing the warranty.

so it would it be fair to say . Besides the warranty and how strict the warranty guidelines are here anyways and the rediculous costs of maintaining, if i can find a decent mechanic who can be trustworhty and can regularly service my gtr35 that it would be a good investment to find an already imported gtr in australia that is jap spec anyhow? If warranty was only the big factor other than servicing the car myself. Being that i couldnt care less about the gizmo that comes with jap spec that are in japanese rather than english but care more about the performance.

You can't just buy r35 parts from Nissan either without an Aussie spec car, though I'm sure others with JDM models have found their way around this? Still would be a pain in the ass if anything went on the car.

wouldn't a grey import Jap spec be an 08MY 'series 1' and as such inferior to the 09MY 'series 2' officially on sale in Oz? A best Motring video was posted here a couple of months back showing the clear speed and control advantage the 09MY has over the 08MY on the race track, this includes tweaks to ECU transmission and launch program.

Edited by Max_ST-R
You can't just buy r35 parts from Nissan either without an Aussie spec car, though I'm sure others with JDM models have found their way around this? Still would be a pain in the ass if anything went on the car.

wow. I better do some homework on getting my way around on maintaining the car if i was not to go through conventional way of servicing with nissan australia. I just feel that after reading up on the costs and hidden costs to keep the car running, im sure there should be a better way. Warranty seems very strict anyways its just a matter of time before you would do something that would void it. If any of you guys have a good source of where to maintain or keep the gtr35 running on the road please feel free to recommend some great work shops who are able and willing to service these cars. As it would be of great benefit to all of us who are wanting to optain this legend but not have to suffer the monopoly from nissan. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • lol no cats running str pipes … might put the high flow back on but I suspect it might effect my ignition timing a bit. 
    • That looks a bit like yellowing to me. If the rear bar was looking like that from rich idle, I'd ask the question, do you have a catalytic converter fitted, and fully working?
    • Oh yeah gets really bad down here. I’ll have to upgrade the heater and wind screen wipers as well for optimal performance.
×
×
  • Create New...