Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I am wondering what you guys got done at your 100k service or also recommend. Just checking if I miss anything. Cause the workshop said I need to make them a list. And how much did it cost you. I need a rough idea.

Cheers

Berny

You don't need to mention workshop names, I don't want a "which workshop is better thread"

I couldn't find the info with search

It's probably going to cost you around $1k - $1.2k for the service.

This is what I try to do...

Every 5,000 - 7,000kms

- Engine Oil

- Oil Filter

- Copper Spark Plugs

Every 30,000kms

- Air Filter

- Gearbox Oil

- Diff Oil

- Fuel Filter

Every 80,000kms

- Water Pump

- Radiator Flush

- Brakes

- Timing Belt

- Fan Belt

Might have missed some stuff!

Get em to check your battery, tires, drivetrain etc.

Most workshops should have a ## point checklist, and they go over the list and check pretty much everything on the car.

Edited by SKY RYAN

-timing belt

-water pump

-oil

-oil filter

-fuel filter

-air filter

-flush radiator and new coolant

-thermostat

-brake pads

-power steering belt

-aircon belt

-alternator belt

Well, that's what im doing this weekend, burns away the majority of it.

Why change the brakes pads if they don't need doing? This is what i would get done:

1. Timing Belt

2. Water Pump

3. Tensioner (optional, really depends if it needs to be done but i would do it anyway!)

4. Oil Seals (cam & crank)

5. Coolant flush (get them to check radiator hoses, replace if necessary - thermostat)

6. Drive Belts

7. Drive line oils (gearbox & diff)

8. Oil & filter

9. Fuel filter

10. Air filter if you have stock filter

11. Spark Plugs

12. Any other general fluids if need to be done (power steering, brake fluid, clutch fluid.. etc)

13. General service - inspect brakes/suspension etc....

For a service like this you looking at roughly $1300+

If the brakes do need doing, get them to machine the rotors, don't just do a pad slap, for an extra $30 odd bucks money well spent!

Im doing the pads mainly because I feel like it.

-timing belt kit ~80

-water pump ~100? (cant remember)

-oil - ~40

-oil filter ~10

-fuel filter ~15?

-air filter ~20?

-flush radiator and new coolant ~not alot

-thermostat ~cant remember

-brake pads ~150 or so

-power steering belt =11

-aircon belt =11

-alternator belt =11

~400 or so.

So if you arent doing it, slap labour on top.

I remember the belt prices exactly.

Cool thanks boys. Turns out my timing belt was changed 40k ago. But the engine and body have each done ~100k now.

post-a220529-cam-cover2.JPG

But I want to do the oils and fluids properly.

Motul 300V Chrono for engine, Redline Lightweight Shockproof for gearbox, Motul 90PA for diff.

Full liquids flush. All filters, compression test, iridium plugs, carbon clean plenum, all drive belts.

Check for leaks, and rubber boots, sub frame and suspension checked and tightened, radiator pressure test.

Hoping this will cost under 1K, due to not having to do timing belt etc.

If you're going to replace fanbelts etc then you may as well replace the tensioner bearing also.

If you're going to replace the timing belt then you may as well replace the water pump as it's cheaper in the long run with the labour costs and it's a part that if it fails, it can cause a lot of damage.

Check thermostat housing for corrosion and if there is corrosion on it then also check under the intake manifold for all the various cooling and heater hose aluminium connections/nipples (hmmmmm nipples :P ). If there's corrosion on some aluminium parts then there's a good chance that there will be others corroding away. Try and use original nissan coolant as it's not as corrosive as other coolants.

Reverse flush the whole cooling system: cleans out the heater core. Pressure test also.

Engine flush: Cleans out oil deposits and other gunk.

Brake fluid flush and replace: brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs water. Not good for brake systems. This is important especially if you live near water or in high humidity areas. You can also get your fluid tested at regular service intervals. Check brake lines and vaccuum hoses to brake booster. Actually check all vacuum lines and intake hoses from turbo to intake manifold.

Same goes for clutch fluid, and power steering. Check hoses for cracking and brittleness. Replace as necessary or if you want to be safe, replace them all anyway. Go on eBay and buy a whole silicon hose kit and put pretty blue or red hoses throughout the engine bay ;)

Change oxgen sensor, water temp sensor and oil pressure sensor if you want to be really really sure, just like the irishman who puts on two condoms, to be shure, to be shure! ;)

Check fuel lines, change fuel filter, check fuel pressure regulator (replace if you think like an irish gigolo).

Check battery acid level and age. There are testers for this. Decent workshops should have a multitude of testers some may even have a scan tool to plug into the ECU to test for any fault codes. Put it on your list of things for them to do. Check other electrical bits for fraying, wearing, discolouration of covers/wires etc etc.

Change oil in transmission, and diff. Flush it if you can. Check/change universal bearings, pivot bearings, wheel bearings. Check suspension and steering bearings, bushings, pivots, arms etc etc etc. Basically anything that moves, make sure it moves correctly, anything that isn't supposed to move, check to make sure it doesn't move.

If you're talking a _MAJOR_ service then thats what I'd be doing at least. Getting a workshop to do it may put the cost up over the $1K mark ( especially with replacing most things) but if you make a list and check a lot of the easier bits yourself then it's a lot cheaper. It's not as hard if you just go through it logically and use common sense. If you check things yourself, make a list and tell the workshop what you did and what you found. They won't take responsibility for anything that goes wrong if they didn't check it themselves.

There's plenty of sites and tutorials around online. They'll save you money and you'll feel good about doing it yourself. (maybe, this isn't guarenteed and some people just shouldn't touch mechanical things. If you are one of these people, work hard for money and pay someone who likes to touch mechanical things).

Hope that helps,

Hermit_

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I buy my wheel cleaner in 4 litre bottles now. Euro brakes are brutal
    • Sounds like it may all just be some baseless outrage stoked by the carexplore guy? As in the linked social media outrage on facebook just goes back to carexplore as a source again. Further shown by the council response that nothing actually has changed: "The Private Land Use Permit has been part of the Casey Community Local Law for a number of years. It's important to clarify that this permit is not new, and no changes have been made to the permit or the Local Law in relation to the permit." The full council response in Prank's link sounds reasonable to me. Saying that as someone who neither lives there nor has a front yard to call their own  
    • Clutch hydraulics are also all good, looks like a brand new slave cylinder and everything bled up well. No idea what the actual clutch is, and I don't intend to pull the box off on the floor to find out, so unless we have trouble on the dyno or at shakedown that will remain a mystery for the new owner
    • Front brakes are G4 8 pot calipers over 330mm discs with braided lines. Everything looks good, pretty sure these are off my old 350. Pads are brand new and judging from gold colour are Winmax which is what I also run on my race car, Neil and I both sourced brake stuff from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney who really knows his stuff Everything has bled up nicely with all new Motul RBF600 fluid, there were 2 loose hard line connections and the calipers were new on the car so I ended up doing it 3 times but it is perfect now
    • So, starting with the rear brakes. They look like standard R33 GTST, and will need new pads shortly (less than 5mm material, probably only 1 day left). The slotted discs (probably DBA) are near new at 18.01mm and the lines are braided
×
×
  • Create New...